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Çiya
Serious foodies consider a trip to Istanbul’s Asian side a worthwhile trek, if only to eat at Çiya. This no-frills kebab shop features dishes from the chef’s childhood home in southeastern Turkey. Look for regional specialties that are unlikely to turn up in any of Istanbul’s more chic establishments. Tip: if you can’t get across the Bosphorus to try Çiya but are interested in the food, Kiva Han serves a similar menu (although it doesn’t have nearly the cult following that Çiya does).
Fazil Bey
Karaköy Gulluoglu
Kofteci Huseyin
Mikla
Mikla is as ambitious and assuming as its name—which in Norse means magnificent (its hotshot chef Mehmet Gürs was born in Finland, grew up in Sweden and is part Turkish). Despite the strong attitude, the award-winning Mikla, in a glass-walled, U-shaped space on the top two floors of the Marmara Pera hotel, delivers in terms of design, cuisine and vista—the view over the Golden Horn is breathtaking. Well-heeled guests enjoy Gürs’ much lauded Mediterranean cuisine before heading to the terrace on the top floor for after-dinner drinks. Those who are interested in the view but can’t commit to an entire meal can also stop by for cocktails on the roof.
Yeni Lokanta
Yeni Lokanta, which translates as “new canteen,” opened in 2013 with chef Civan Er, formerly of Changa, at its helm. Continuing the trend of New Istanbul cuisine, Yeni Lokanta serves updated takes on Turkish classics and features a small but good wine list of boutique Turkish vineyards. The space is cozy, with traditional tiled floors and a wood-burning oven, and is popular with a hip, foodie crowd.
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