Gjelina

One of the most memorable dishes I had in L.A. wasn’t even an entrée—it was an appetizer at Gjelina, a sizzling restaurant on Abbot Kinney. Soft spoonfuls of burrata cheese were topped with fresh grilled figs, baby arugula, shards of prosciutto and a drizzle of balsamic. The wonderful textures and flavors blended perfectly–sweet, salty, tangy, peppery, creamy. Like many restaurants in L.A., Gjelina is market-driven. Chef Travis Lett’s Mediterranean menu includes small plates (grilled nectarines with prosciutto; ricotta gnocchi with sage and brown butter), ultra-fresh vegetables (wood-roasted sunchokes) and the house specialty: pizza. Made in the wood-burning oven, each is individually sized, with crust so crisp it crackles, and such decadent toppings as hen-of-the-wood mushrooms and Taleggio. The walls are lined with banquettes and there is an outdoor patio; you can also choose to sit at the big communal table by the bar. Call several weeks in advance if you hope to secure dinner reservations—even the best concierge will have trouble getting you a spot before 10:30 p.m. An easier solution: drop in at noon for an early lunch after shopping along Abbot Kinney.