State Bird Provisions

Winner of the 2013 James Beard best new restaurant award, this brainchild of Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski (who both worked at the much lauded, but now closed, Rubicon) takes its name from California’s state bird, the quail. Indeed, deep-fried quail is one of Brioza’s signature dishes. The penchant for less common fowl and game extends to other dishes, like guinea hen dumplings and grilled rabbit, although the ever-changing menu always features plenty of interesting fish and vegetable dishes as well. And I mean interesting, as in pickled anchovy-sesame pancakes with basil and crème fraiche. Desserts, like a mint ice cream sandwich with chocolate-fig coulis, are equally inspired. And the concept—where dishes are wheeled between guests dim sum-style—as inspired fine-dining restaurants around the country.

The unusual location, at Fillmore Street just south of Geary, is definitely not upscale, but it’s just a stone’s throw from Pacific Heights and it’s a section of town that’s seen a revival in recent years. The décor is also downbeat, but with such exotic flavors, no one is paying attention to the gray stone walls.