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Atwater Cocktail Club
Au Pied de Cochon
For Martin Picard, who is widely credited with putting Québécois cuisine on the map, almost anything edible is an acceptable vehicle for foie gras. At Au Pied de Cochon, he serves it alongside buckwheat pancakes and bacon (drenched in maple syrup), on hotdog buns and even atop Montreal's favorite comfort food: poutine (fries layered with cheese curds and gravy). Dinner at PDC is equal parts communion and conquest; the restaurant opened in 2001, and devout carnivores have been queuing up gamely ever since, eager to challenge each other to "Duck in a Can" and "Pig's Head for Two." If at times the menu verges on carnivalesque, it has also done much to ennoble a culinary tradition that—though it's hard to believe—10 years ago needed a hero like Picard.
If your visit to Montreal happens to coincide with Canadian sugar season (late February through early May), save room for a field trip to Picard's elevated cabane à sucre or "sugar shack"—where he serves an entire menu of maple-sweetened heavy-hitters to cozy revelers and worldly lumberjacks.
Boucherie Lawrence
Bouillon Bilk
Despite opening in 2011, Buillon Bilk seems to have gotten its second wind after a 2014 rehaul that elevated the restaurant from good to excellent. Dishes range from the inventive (pork dumpling with plum, celery, mushrooms and popped rice) to the classic (succulent duck magret with cherries). The cocktails are well-crafted and the wine list is excellent.
Buvette Chez Simone
A neighborhood haunt that resembles your typical West Village wine bar, Buvette Chez Simone attracts a mix of local Francophiles and trendy visitors. The simple fare of charcuterie, cheese and a excellent roast chicken platter pairs well with the curated wine selection. The Mile End staple starts filling up in the early evening, but the charming patio—complete with yellow stools and milk crate flower boxes—is a lovely, and quieter, alternative to the industrial dining room.
Cloakroom Bar
Hidden behind a mirrored wooden door, adjacent to a high-end menswear shop, this petite speakeasy is a fabulously serene place for an inventive, pre-dinner cocktail. There’s no menu; rather, the bartenders discuss your likes and dislikes and whip up the perfect personalized concoction. And even though the black-and-white framed photographs leading guests down the dimly-lit hallway are of iconic men (Marcello Mastroianni, Serge Gainsbourg, etc.), the bartending team here includes several women: a rarity among speakeasy settings.
Cocoa Locale
Reema Singh is the owner, baker and cashier at this one-woman cupcake show in Mile End where she whips up the city’s best confections. The atmosphere—which feels like a grandmother’s fragrant home—is as sweet as the goods themselves. The chai chocolate cupcake and spicy brownie satisfy with a sugary kick.
Flyjin Coffee Shop
This small, charming coffee shop is tucked away on Rue Saint-Pierre in Old Montreal and a great spot for a caffeine boost or freshly squeezed orange juice. Flyjin has a modern, minimalist wood interior and a well-curated selection of design magazines, making it a great spot to hide out for a few hours.
Foiegwa
Garde Manger
As is the case with most Montreal restaurants, patrons at Garde Manger would be wise to check all notions of a nutritious meal at the door. This shouldn’t, however, dissuade you from a meal at the Old Montreal hot spot; merely let it serve as a warning that your impending meal is likely to include artery-clogging house specialties: lobster poutine and a deep fried Mars bar à la mode.
Grinder
Griffintown’s Grinder, the latest spot from the owner of Buvette Chez Simone, is nearly always packed with sexy young things mingling on the shaded terrace or in the industrial dining room. The interior is nearly all wood, accented by the occasional black lacquered fixture creating a sleek, modern vibe that pairs well with the innovative menu. Diners build a meal from the raw menu, featuring a bevy of carpaccios, tatakis and tartares, and the cooked menu, which offers everything from tandoori halibut to a tender rib eye steak.
Hof Kelsten
This artisanal hipster boulangerie is famous for its array of French/Jewish pastries, including an acclaimed (and often sold-out) panettone during the holiday season. Owner-chef Jeffrey Finkelstein, whose resume is full of such renowned spots as Per Se, Noma and the French Laundry, also devised a short but delectable brunch menu (think challah French toast). Most of the seating is at a long communal table and bar stools, so it’s not a spot where you linger for hours, but the incredible quality of the pastries and breaded items has accrued a loyal following. During the warmer months, pick up something here and take the short stroll into Parc Mont Royal down the street.
Holder
Ikanos
Joe Beef
This inconspicuous-looking eatery in southwest Montreal's Little Burgundy neighborhood has inspired many a northerly road trip. The sublime cuisine, which ranges from tender (backyard nasturtium-sprinkled lettuces) to taboo (horse loin) to apocalyptic (a maple-soaked bacon and cheddar sandwich bundled between two chicken skin mayonnaise-coated slabs of deep-fried foie gras), resists categorization. A meal at Joe Beef is as unpredictable as it is rapturous.
As is often the case with pilgrimage-worthy restaurants, getting a table requires a mix of of doggedness and finagling. But beyond the sophisticated wine list and the reservation scramble, David MacMillan and Frédéric Morin's kitchen bears little resemblance to other places of its caliber. It is more boisterous and democratic—and more personal. You may even find yourself shedding tears over your foie gras double-down and exchanging contact information with your server, who will almost certainly be exuberant, articulate and tattooed. If you're visiting during summer, ask to be seated on the garden terrace. On subzero nights, the coziest seat in the house is the corner table in the oyster bar annex.
Lawrence
This Mile End mainstay serves up haute Anglo fare made with ingredients from Québécois family farms. Weekend brunch regulars rise early in anticipation of scones with jam and clotted cream and boudin noir – black pudding served on soda bread with spinach and fried eggs. Though lunch and dinner are rumored to be just as compelling, you're unlikely to find a more pleasant place to ease into Sunday than Lawrence's airy dining room, with its smart charcoal walls and handsome wooden tables bathed in soft, thin morning light. Get there in a hurry (lest the last batch of scones be spoken for) then caffeinate slowly and contentedly.
Le Butterblume
This popular restaurant is tucked at the periphery of the Mile End, but that doesn’t deter throngs of locals from lining up for the delicious comfort food, especially during weekend brunch. Try to snag a seat at the counter overlooking the open kitchen to watch the hard-working chefs churn out innovative dishes, many of which feature Asian touches (a highlight: the Maultaschen, Germany’s answer to ravioli, served in a flavorful dashi). This being Montreal, there’s a lovely coffee counter up front, as well as a tiny boutique selling objects for the kitchen and home.
Le Filet
One might wonder if there is room for a seafood restaurant in carnivorous Montreal, which seems to offer menus full of foie gras and smoked brisket at every turn—and sometimes at the same time. Le Filet, whose menu features fish in nearly every dish, proves that the impossible is, in fact, possible. The hot spot has been packed since opening, doling out dishes like crab risotto, oysters and pork flank (served with scallops). The contemporary space features an open kitchen and, in case one were to forget the theme, a built-in aquarium along one wall.
Le Serpent
Set among a cluster of quirky galleries in Old Montreal, Le Serpent caters to a well-heeled art crowd at lunch and glitzy clientele at dinner. The short menu has something for everyone, from light appetizers like salmon tartar with spicy mango and Nduja mayonnaise to a hearty à la broche (rotisserie) section of the menu, which features a special each day. But the complex pastas—like a superb linguini with speck, almonds, cauliflower and truffle brunoise—are the chef’s strong suit.
Le Vin Papillon
Liverpool House
The sister restaurant to the pilgrimage-worthy Joe Beef, Liverpool House boasts a similarly impressive reputation as a hot spot for locals and visitors alike. Located on the same street as Joe Beef in Montreal’s Little Burgundy neighborhood, the restaurant serves a frequently changing menu featuring unique twists on traditional meat and seafood dishes. (The lobster spaghetti and roasted brussels sprouts with maple syrup are not to be missed.)
LOV McGill
Vegetarian fare has never been as creatively prepared as at this hot spot, whose name stands for “Local, Organic, Vegetarian.” The bright, streamlined design—with lots of light wood, white-painted brick walls and terrariums filled with succulents—is the perfect backdrop for the healthy and satisfying dishes. The innovative menu includes a vegan version of Montreal’s famous poutine (with russet potatoes and a miso-based gravy), and the all-natural wine and beer lists showcase lovely, lesser-known finds. There are two locations, but the one in Old Montreal is a particular winner thanks to its location within walking distance from the Vieux Port, the Museum of Contemporary Art and Notre-Dame Basilica.
Maggie Oakes
Maison Boulud
Daniel Boulud hardly needs any talking up, but after closing his short-lived Vancouver restaurant, there was some doubt he’d find success in Montreal. And yet, Montreal locals were quick to approve of his restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton, which serves an accessible menu of French cuisine sourced from local purveyors. Diners can choose between an à la carte menu and a five-course tasting menu, to be enjoyed in the cozy dining room or sunlit greenhouse. The latter is an ideal setting for the restaurant’s spectacular brunch.
Maison Publique
Despite being owned by superchef Jamie Oliver, the innovative British pub Maison Publique boasts cuisine that is all thanks to Derek Dammann. Located a fifteen-minute drive from downtown Montreal in a mostly residential neighborhood, the cozy spot feels like a neighborhood eatery that has been around for decades. Diners can expect to find classic English bites like Welsh rarebit, baked oysters and foie gras toast. While the dinner grub isn’t the most family-friendly, the weekend brunch has kid-approved classics like pancakes and a grilled croque-monsieur—both of which come doused in maple syrup.
Olive + Gourmando
At this bustling patisserie and sandwich spot in historic Old Montreal, the colorful comfort food and cozy atmosphere are perfectly in sync. The seasonal lunch menu is always evolving, but the chalkboard menus invariably feature a nostalgic array of restorative soups and grown-up grilled cheeses. Arctic mornings call for breakfast toast with spicy poached eggs, speck, comté and slow roasted tomatoes, but an apple panini with homemade walnut butter hits the spot on sleepy fall afternoons.
Park
Chef Antonio Park was the first sushi guru to bring Kaimin tai to Canada—this acupuncture method induces fish into a coma-like state while being transported to ensure maximum freshness. The results are extraordinary; fish arrive from an overnight flight in nearly the same condition they were upon being caught.
Despite the enormous pains taken to create each bite, Park is as unpretentious as it gets, with an exposed cement ceiling juxtaposed with crystal chandeliers. The small, quirky spot hums with alternative music and the friendly banter of the wait staff as they break down the day’s chalkboard menu. Large booths and a small bar make the venue as suited to a lively gathering as a solo meal.
For those not interested in the omakase menu, Park’s short but sweet à la carte options include his famous Asian salad (a combination of 21 fresh vegetables and fruits with a sesame plum dressing), a chef’s maki (where he whips up a surprise of his liking) and a selection of rolls and fusion dishes like Korean bibimbap. There’s a takeaway market next-door that provides a bevy of the chef’s greatest hits.