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Hof Kelsten
This artisanal hipster boulangerie is famous for its array of French/Jewish pastries, including an acclaimed (and often sold-out) panettone during the holiday season. Owner-chef Jeffrey Finkelstein, whose resume is full of such renowned spots as Per Se, Noma and the French Laundry, also devised a short but delectable brunch menu (think challah French toast). Most of the seating is at a long communal table and bar stools, so it’s not a spot where you linger for hours, but the incredible quality of the pastries and breaded items has accrued a loyal following. During the warmer months, pick up something here and take the short stroll into Parc Mont Royal down the street.
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Lawrence
This Mile End mainstay serves up haute Anglo fare made with ingredients from Québécois family farms. Weekend brunch regulars rise early in anticipation of scones with jam and clotted cream and boudin noir – black pudding served on soda bread with spinach and fried eggs. Though lunch and dinner are rumored to be just as compelling, you're unlikely to find a more pleasant place to ease into Sunday than Lawrence's airy dining room, with its smart charcoal walls and handsome wooden tables bathed in soft, thin morning light. Get there in a hurry (lest the last batch of scones be spoken for) then caffeinate slowly and contentedly.
Olive + Gourmando
At this bustling patisserie and sandwich spot in historic Old Montreal, the colorful comfort food and cozy atmosphere are perfectly in sync. The seasonal lunch menu is always evolving, but the chalkboard menus invariably feature a nostalgic array of restorative soups and grown-up grilled cheeses. Arctic mornings call for breakfast toast with spicy poached eggs, speck, comté and slow roasted tomatoes, but an apple panini with homemade walnut butter hits the spot on sleepy fall afternoons.
Schwartz's
There are a number of awards and accolades attributed to this Mile End Delicatessen, but for the sake of simplicity, suffice it to say that Schwartz’s serves the best smoked-meat sandwich in North America. The kosher-style haunt opened in 1928, and launched Montreal’s now-famous smoked-meat obsession. If you do dine here, go big or go home; the signature features a colossal pile of smoked meat (medium and medium-fat are the best) topped with yellow mustard and sandwiched by two pieces of hearty rye bread. Be aware of the lunchtime rush—this is a Montreal favorite.
St-Viateur Bagel
Montreal’s great bagel debate rivals those that are waged over Chicago’s best deep-dish pie. This one, however, has only two players: St-Viatuer and Fairmount (74 Avenue Fairmount Ouest; 514-272-0667). Just blocks from each other, the rivals each have their own loyal following, but St-Viatuer has a bigger space and offers a more interactive experience, as patrons can watch the bakers at work in the open kitchen. Visitors should stop by both for a taste test, but if you only have time for one, St-Viatuer is the winner.
Toqué!
Toqué! has been the star of the Montreal dining scene since opening in 1993. The refined Relais & Châteaux establishment, accredited with popularizing new Québec cuisine, features an airy, contemporary dining room, where diners are treated to one of the most gourmet meals available in Montreal. Located around the corner from Hotel Le St-James, the elegant spot—which offers a number of tasting menus as well as á la carte options—is the definitive choice for a big night out.
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