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Au Pied de Cochon
For Martin Picard, who is widely credited with putting Québécois cuisine on the map, almost anything edible is an acceptable vehicle for foie gras. At Au Pied de Cochon, he serves it alongside buckwheat pancakes and bacon (drenched in maple syrup), on hotdog buns and even atop Montreal's favorite comfort food: poutine (fries layered with cheese curds and gravy). Dinner at PDC is equal parts communion and conquest; the restaurant opened in 2001, and devout carnivores have been queuing up gamely ever since, eager to challenge each other to "Duck in a Can" and "Pig's Head for Two." If at times the menu verges on carnivalesque, it has also done much to ennoble a culinary tradition that—though it's hard to believe—10 years ago needed a hero like Picard.
If your visit to Montreal happens to coincide with Canadian sugar season (late February through early May), save room for a field trip to Picard's elevated cabane à sucre or "sugar shack"—where he serves an entire menu of maple-sweetened heavy-hitters to cozy revelers and worldly lumberjacks.
Boucherie Lawrence
Bouillon Bilk
Despite opening in 2011, Buillon Bilk seems to have gotten its second wind after a 2014 rehaul that elevated the restaurant from good to excellent. Dishes range from the inventive (pork dumpling with plum, celery, mushrooms and popped rice) to the classic (succulent duck magret with cherries). The cocktails are well-crafted and the wine list is excellent.
Foiegwa
Garde Manger
As is the case with most Montreal restaurants, patrons at Garde Manger would be wise to check all notions of a nutritious meal at the door. This shouldn’t, however, dissuade you from a meal at the Old Montreal hot spot; merely let it serve as a warning that your impending meal is likely to include artery-clogging house specialties: lobster poutine and a deep fried Mars bar à la mode.
Joe Beef
This inconspicuous-looking eatery in southwest Montreal's Little Burgundy neighborhood has inspired many a northerly road trip. The sublime cuisine, which ranges from tender (backyard nasturtium-sprinkled lettuces) to taboo (horse loin) to apocalyptic (a maple-soaked bacon and cheddar sandwich bundled between two chicken skin mayonnaise-coated slabs of deep-fried foie gras), resists categorization. A meal at Joe Beef is as unpredictable as it is rapturous.
As is often the case with pilgrimage-worthy restaurants, getting a table requires a mix of of doggedness and finagling. But beyond the sophisticated wine list and the reservation scramble, David MacMillan and Frédéric Morin's kitchen bears little resemblance to other places of its caliber. It is more boisterous and democratic—and more personal. You may even find yourself shedding tears over your foie gras double-down and exchanging contact information with your server, who will almost certainly be exuberant, articulate and tattooed. If you're visiting during summer, ask to be seated on the garden terrace. On subzero nights, the coziest seat in the house is the corner table in the oyster bar annex.
Le Butterblume
This popular restaurant is tucked at the periphery of the Mile End, but that doesn’t deter throngs of locals from lining up for the delicious comfort food, especially during weekend brunch. Try to snag a seat at the counter overlooking the open kitchen to watch the hard-working chefs churn out innovative dishes, many of which feature Asian touches (a highlight: the Maultaschen, Germany’s answer to ravioli, served in a flavorful dashi). This being Montreal, there’s a lovely coffee counter up front, as well as a tiny boutique selling objects for the kitchen and home.
Le Serpent
Set among a cluster of quirky galleries in Old Montreal, Le Serpent caters to a well-heeled art crowd at lunch and glitzy clientele at dinner. The short menu has something for everyone, from light appetizers like salmon tartar with spicy mango and Nduja mayonnaise to a hearty à la broche (rotisserie) section of the menu, which features a special each day. But the complex pastas—like a superb linguini with speck, almonds, cauliflower and truffle brunoise—are the chef’s strong suit.
Le Vin Papillon
Liverpool House
The sister restaurant to the pilgrimage-worthy Joe Beef, Liverpool House boasts a similarly impressive reputation as a hot spot for locals and visitors alike. Located on the same street as Joe Beef in Montreal’s Little Burgundy neighborhood, the restaurant serves a frequently changing menu featuring unique twists on traditional meat and seafood dishes. (The lobster spaghetti and roasted brussels sprouts with maple syrup are not to be missed.)
LOV McGill
Vegetarian fare has never been as creatively prepared as at this hot spot, whose name stands for “Local, Organic, Vegetarian.” The bright, streamlined design—with lots of light wood, white-painted brick walls and terrariums filled with succulents—is the perfect backdrop for the healthy and satisfying dishes. The innovative menu includes a vegan version of Montreal’s famous poutine (with russet potatoes and a miso-based gravy), and the all-natural wine and beer lists showcase lovely, lesser-known finds. There are two locations, but the one in Old Montreal is a particular winner thanks to its location within walking distance from the Vieux Port, the Museum of Contemporary Art and Notre-Dame Basilica.
Park
Chef Antonio Park was the first sushi guru to bring Kaimin tai to Canada—this acupuncture method induces fish into a coma-like state while being transported to ensure maximum freshness. The results are extraordinary; fish arrive from an overnight flight in nearly the same condition they were upon being caught.
Despite the enormous pains taken to create each bite, Park is as unpretentious as it gets, with an exposed cement ceiling juxtaposed with crystal chandeliers. The small, quirky spot hums with alternative music and the friendly banter of the wait staff as they break down the day’s chalkboard menu. Large booths and a small bar make the venue as suited to a lively gathering as a solo meal.
For those not interested in the omakase menu, Park’s short but sweet à la carte options include his famous Asian salad (a combination of 21 fresh vegetables and fruits with a sesame plum dressing), a chef’s maki (where he whips up a surprise of his liking) and a selection of rolls and fusion dishes like Korean bibimbap. There’s a takeaway market next-door that provides a bevy of the chef’s greatest hits.
Pastaga
It’s hard to have a bad meal at Pastaga, which, despite its location in Little Italy and seemingly Italian name, is a simple wine bar with locally-inspired small plates. Diners have the choice of sitting in three different spaces, including one located in the kitchen itself where patrons can watch the chefs work. Dinner might feature dishes like scallops with cauliflower puree and black sesame and Yukon gold gnocchi with parmesan cream, broccoli rabe and toasted almonds. At brunch, diners nosh on bread pudding with chocolate mousse and caramelized bananas and an eggs Benedict with Canadian bacon cornbread.
Toqué!
Toqué! has been the star of the Montreal dining scene since opening in 1993. The refined Relais & Châteaux establishment, accredited with popularizing new Québec cuisine, features an airy, contemporary dining room, where diners are treated to one of the most gourmet meals available in Montreal. Located around the corner from Hotel Le St-James, the elegant spot—which offers a number of tasting menus as well as á la carte options—is the definitive choice for a big night out.
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