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Bouillon Bilk
Despite opening in 2011, Buillon Bilk seems to have gotten its second wind after a 2014 rehaul that elevated the restaurant from good to excellent. Dishes range from the inventive (pork dumpling with plum, celery, mushrooms and popped rice) to the classic (succulent duck magret with cherries). The cocktails are well-crafted and the wine list is excellent.
Foiegwa
Ikanos
Joe Beef
This inconspicuous-looking eatery in southwest Montreal's Little Burgundy neighborhood has inspired many a northerly road trip. The sublime cuisine, which ranges from tender (backyard nasturtium-sprinkled lettuces) to taboo (horse loin) to apocalyptic (a maple-soaked bacon and cheddar sandwich bundled between two chicken skin mayonnaise-coated slabs of deep-fried foie gras), resists categorization. A meal at Joe Beef is as unpredictable as it is rapturous.
As is often the case with pilgrimage-worthy restaurants, getting a table requires a mix of of doggedness and finagling. But beyond the sophisticated wine list and the reservation scramble, David MacMillan and Frédéric Morin's kitchen bears little resemblance to other places of its caliber. It is more boisterous and democratic—and more personal. You may even find yourself shedding tears over your foie gras double-down and exchanging contact information with your server, who will almost certainly be exuberant, articulate and tattooed. If you're visiting during summer, ask to be seated on the garden terrace. On subzero nights, the coziest seat in the house is the corner table in the oyster bar annex.
Le Filet
One might wonder if there is room for a seafood restaurant in carnivorous Montreal, which seems to offer menus full of foie gras and smoked brisket at every turn—and sometimes at the same time. Le Filet, whose menu features fish in nearly every dish, proves that the impossible is, in fact, possible. The hot spot has been packed since opening, doling out dishes like crab risotto, oysters and pork flank (served with scallops). The contemporary space features an open kitchen and, in case one were to forget the theme, a built-in aquarium along one wall.
Le Serpent
Set among a cluster of quirky galleries in Old Montreal, Le Serpent caters to a well-heeled art crowd at lunch and glitzy clientele at dinner. The short menu has something for everyone, from light appetizers like salmon tartar with spicy mango and Nduja mayonnaise to a hearty à la broche (rotisserie) section of the menu, which features a special each day. But the complex pastas—like a superb linguini with speck, almonds, cauliflower and truffle brunoise—are the chef’s strong suit.
LOV McGill
Vegetarian fare has never been as creatively prepared as at this hot spot, whose name stands for “Local, Organic, Vegetarian.” The bright, streamlined design—with lots of light wood, white-painted brick walls and terrariums filled with succulents—is the perfect backdrop for the healthy and satisfying dishes. The innovative menu includes a vegan version of Montreal’s famous poutine (with russet potatoes and a miso-based gravy), and the all-natural wine and beer lists showcase lovely, lesser-known finds. There are two locations, but the one in Old Montreal is a particular winner thanks to its location within walking distance from the Vieux Port, the Museum of Contemporary Art and Notre-Dame Basilica.
Maggie Oakes
Park
Chef Antonio Park was the first sushi guru to bring Kaimin tai to Canada—this acupuncture method induces fish into a coma-like state while being transported to ensure maximum freshness. The results are extraordinary; fish arrive from an overnight flight in nearly the same condition they were upon being caught.
Despite the enormous pains taken to create each bite, Park is as unpretentious as it gets, with an exposed cement ceiling juxtaposed with crystal chandeliers. The small, quirky spot hums with alternative music and the friendly banter of the wait staff as they break down the day’s chalkboard menu. Large booths and a small bar make the venue as suited to a lively gathering as a solo meal.
For those not interested in the omakase menu, Park’s short but sweet à la carte options include his famous Asian salad (a combination of 21 fresh vegetables and fruits with a sesame plum dressing), a chef’s maki (where he whips up a surprise of his liking) and a selection of rolls and fusion dishes like Korean bibimbap. There’s a takeaway market next-door that provides a bevy of the chef’s greatest hits.
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