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Bistro B
Opened by the ex-chef of Panache, Bistro B has a decidedly different atmosphere than the fine dining institution, but is still one of the hottest destinations for foodies. Located in the charming Montcalm neighborhood (a ten-minute drive from town), the innovative eatery offers something for those craving a more inventive meal—and trendier environment—than most downtown spots provide. Most dishes are refined, while still being comforting; the menu, scribbled on chalkboard, has previously featured a cream of mushroom risotto and bison tartare with parmesan and truffle, as well as the occasional fish and chips and grilled cheese. The weekend brunch is one of the city’s liveliest.
Café St-Malo
L'Echaudé
This is one of those wonderful neighborhood restaurants where the owner and his staff welcomes regulars in the same way they do visitors—who will quickly feel like old timers. The environment is one of genuine bonhomie: warm and comforting with delicious food. The menu changes daily but at lunch there’s always a soup, omelet, salmon and steak tartar. Classic bistro food such as fish and mussel soup, goat cheese salad and steak tartar are excellent, as are more creative dishes such as duck breast filet with figs, braised endive and blue cheese or prosciutto-wrapped shrimp with celeriac ratatouille.
Be sure to save room for dessert because the sugar pie and profiteroles are exceptional. In the summer, there are tables set on the street outside, but it’s always wise to reserve in advance as this one of the city’s most popular spots.
La Legende
Laurie Raphaël
Another fine dining spot in the Lower City, Laurie Raphaël offers a more casual environment than Panache and Initiale. Serving French and Québecois cuisine, the refined eatery changes its menu daily, but sources as much as possible from the region. Previous avant-garde dishes include baked apple with foie gras and Boileau deer with cocoa and Basque pepper. Lunch and dinner are served in the airy, contemporary dining room complete with red wildcat fur walls, and lunch boxes are available to order for a picnic along the St. Lawrence. For formal meals, diners can order the tasting menu or á la carte. Don’t miss the seasonal hunting brunch in winter.
Le Billig
Slightly off the beaten path on Rue Saint-Jean is the city’s best crêperie. The homey, convivial spot lacks pretention, and is off the typical tourist’s radar (for now). Sweet and savory crêpes come pouring out of the semi-open kitchen and a served with a jolly “bon appétit!” There are the classic, like ham and cheese or dark chocolate, but more daring diners should opt for one of the house specialties like a particularly wonderful duck confit, spinach, swiss cheese and onion marmalade concoction.
Le Café du Monde
Set right on the edge of the river, Le Café du Monde models itself on the great bistros of Paris. However, when you are seated in the dining room, with its huge water-facing windows, you may feel more as if you are on a docked yacht. Expect typical bistro fare such as onion soup, escargots and foie gras as starters and main courses such as mussels marinere, grilled salmon, coq au vin and beef tartare with frites. In the summer, request a table on the outdoor terrace so you can watch the boats go by.
Le Pain Gruel
This beloved bakery whips up fresh, fragrant breads from a tiny storefront on rue Saint-Jean. The offerings change daily, but if they have any Petit Reconfort (a date, dark chocolate and dried pear bread) or chocolate-cranberry kamut buns, snatch some up before they sell out.
Le Saint Amour
It’s no accident that Le Saint Amour is one the oldest restaurants in town; since opening in 1978, the institution has been a reliable go-to for an excellent meal, a romantic ambiance and polished, old-world service. Split into three dining rooms (the best of which features an indoor garden and glass ceiling), the elegant spot serves modern French cuisine. There is even a section of the menu dedicated to the chef’s specialty: foie gras. The wine list is one of the best in all of Canada.
Paillard
While it might seem no more than a spruced up dining hall, Paillard is one of the most popular patisseries in all of Québec City, and it is the perfect spot for a quick lunch while roaming the Upper Town. Lunchtime offerings include soups, salads and sandwiches, but the best treats are the freshly baked breads. After picking up an olive and feta–stuffed loaf, snag some chocolates from the small grocery section for a meal in Esplanade Park.
Panache
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