Exterior - Acacia Cliffs Lodge, North Island, New Zealand

Acacia Cliffs Lodge

Linda Whitlock used to take her then-three-year-old daughter to a deer farm on a hillside high above Lake Taupo to feed the animals. Today, Acacia Cliffs Lodge, which Linda runs alongside her husband, Rick, stands on the very spot. And even though the Whitlocks are well-traveled (they have also lived in Auckland and all over Europe), their heart is so clearly here — in the beautiful Taupo area. Acacia Cliffs is their dream lodge, built from the ground up and opened in 2008.

Unlike many New Zealand lodges, the architecture inside and out is contemporary. Rooms are built around floor-to-ceiling windows (three of the four guest rooms face the lake) and are done mostly in white, black and charcoal with touches of red and framed photographs of native birds adding bursts of color. Bathrooms are spacious and comfortable, but only one has a separate tub. Three rooms sit on the lower floor and one larger suite is located on the upper floor besides the large living room and open kitchen.

At Acacia Cliffs, you are sharing close quarters with other guests (travelers who do not like the idea of mingling over a glass of wine at the end of the day should book elsewhere). But a personal touch is what Acacia is all about. Linda and Rick are a wealth of information about the Taupo area and happy to make suggestions based on the weather, fitness level and personal interest. Rick also happens to be a chef (he has run restaurants for 30 years), and guests can pre-arrange dinner at the lodge for one of their nights. Otherwise, Taupo is an eight-minute drive away and there are many restaurant options in the area. Anyone coming from lodges where five-course meals are the norm might also welcome the idea of having a lighter night. Rick prepares canapés every evening – while I stayed, he whipped up a gorgeous, cold-smoked trout, which was served with delicious local bread slathered in butter and a touch of wasabi. Served with a glass of crisp Sauvignon, while I sat watching the Taupo lights twinkle in the distance as the lake turned dark, this was a wonderfully local, light dinner.

view of a lodge camp across the lake
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Alpine Lodge at Minaret Station

One of New Zealand’s most epic wilderness experiences is set on 65,000 spectacular acres of private farmland in the remote Fiordland.

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Annandale

What is difficult to picture before you’ve been to Annandale is that the “working farm” part is neither gimmick, petting zoo nor tourist attraction. Owner Mark Palmer dreamed of owning a farm first and foremost, and that is what drives the revenue. Depending on the season, there are some 7,000 sheep and 700 cattle here, which are bred for wool and meat sales. Wherever you go—either hiking or four-wheel driving—you encounter herds of animals dotting the Annandale pasture, located high above the ocean, with large rolling hills and dramatic cliffs that plummet into the sparkling water below.

Guests arrive at the Homestead, a lavishly restored manor house that is surrounded by glorious gardens and overlooks Pigeon Bay. This was the original villa that Palmer, a Kiwi who is based in Texas, restored and outfitted for his family. It’s a sumptuous centerpiece, complete with an infinity pool, gym, tennis courts and several massive gardens—all accessible only to guests renting this four-bedroom villa. Instead of placing the three additional Annandale villas alongside one another on the same bluff however—that would have been too easy—Palmer added two of them in utterly secluded coves and the third, a romantic charmer for two, on top of a hillside surrounded by pastures.

The latter, called Shepherd’s Cottage, occupies a restored, historic home, and its single bedroom has beautiful views towards the sea. It’s as quiet as can be—after all, even this villa is a 30-minute drive from the Homestead.

The true showstoppers on property, however, are Scrubby Bay and Seascape, both designed by award-winning Auckland architect Andrew Patterson. Scrubby, about a 45-minute drive from Homestead, is a low-lying, cabin-style villa with three master bedrooms and a bunk room for the kids, as well as a pool, hot tub, massive living room and fully outfitted kitchen. The wood-paneled doors all slide open so that interiors and exteriors blend into one continuous place.

Seascape, a cove over but seemingly worlds removed, is a couples-only haven. With its mix of slate, concrete, pine and an abundance of glass, it looks like something James Bond and Sir Norman Foster co-designed. The open-floor living room-kitchen-bedroom is framed by massive, floor-to-ceiling windows, leading to a terrace that fronts a bay that is entirely yours for your stay. The rectangular gas fireplace—opened by the push of a button —separates a comfortable, al fresco sitting area on one side from the sunken hot tub on the other, and every inch has uninterrupted views. It’s a stunning, contemporary hideaway, but once the care taker's car that dropped you here has disappeared up the steep rocky driveway, you are keenly aware just how far from “civilization” you are —staying here is almost like high-end back-country camping.

Make that very high-end back-country camping. When guests arrive, the stainless steel fridge is stocked with dinner, the next day’s breakfast and a nice selection of wine. This is how Annandale has, for now, solved the logistical challenge of distance and in-villa dining. Chef Paul Jobin pre-prepares multi-course meals and labels them with preparation directions. If this sounds like airplane food, it isn’t. On the night we visited, we dined on Moroccan chicken pie dressed in wild watercress oil. Next up was a 30-hour-cooked lamb shoulder with a smoked kumara puree, seasonal vegetables and a crisp salad (homegrown, of course). And for dessert, chocolate pecan pie with an avocado ice cream and rhubarb coulis.

The best addition to dinner, however, are the views and feeling of complete seclusion and privacy – the coves of Seaside and Scrubby Bay and the hillside of theShepherd’s Cottage are yours alone for the time you stay there. Indagare Tip: The “we cook, you serve” concept is innovative, chef Paul’s cuisine is absolutely delicious and the directions are as straightforward as an be – but people who do not cook at all back home might still find executing the meals a bit challenging. At Scrubby Bay, Seaside and the Homestead, having the chef come to your villa to prepare the food sur-place is also possible.

Bedroom at Azur Lodge, Queenstown, New Zealand - Photo Courtesy - Preferred Hotels & Resorts

Azur Lodge

Located at the end of a suburban street, a six-minute drive from Queenstown, Azur has just nine villas and a main lodge, making it a great choice for couples who like to hole up in an incredibly romantic setting at the end of an active day. All of the nine villas boast the same generous size and open floor-plan layout, with a large sitting area in front of a gas fireplace, a nook for a round dining table and a massive, oversized king-size bed. Everything is pointed in the direction of floor-to-ceiling window panels that overlook Lake Wakatipu and Cecil Peak and stretch onward to the Remarkables mountain range (featured prominently in The Lord of the Rings movies).

Interiors are modern and sleek, with lots of warm wood and splashes of color in greens and blues. Bathrooms – spacious and with views – are tiled in charcoal grey, boasting showers the size of small Manhattan apartments, and bathtubs come with Jacuzzi jets. The mini-bar is stocked with local treats, the balcony has comfortable loungers, there’s wine upon arrival – in short, once you have arrived, the Azur villas are not easy to leave.

That’s a good thing for couples happy to hole up here and not so great for types who need hotel amenities. Azur doesn’t have a pool, a gym, a spa or a restaurant. Massages can be organized in the rooms, and the lovely staff is happy to pick up some food from a Queenstown restaurant – a fancy version of take-out – and set up the table with candles in your room. The main lodge has a comfortable dining room where breakfasts are served communal-style, and the library where afternoon wine and canapés are presented, but for the most part, Azur is the type of place where guests are touring in the area during the day and are holed up in their villas in the evenings. Queenstown is close by (it feels more accessible than at Matakauri) and guests can request to be shuttled there, in case driving on the left side of the road after dinner does not sound appealing.

The staff at Azur is terrific – young, motivated and full of great recommendations for touring in Queenstown and beyond. And thanks to the intimate size of the property, the experience of staying here feels personal and customized.

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Aerial View - Bay of Many Coves, South Island, New Zealand

Bay of Many Coves

In New Zealand, a Kiwi’s “bach” is the equivalent of an American's cabin in the woods. The Bay of Many Coves resort was conceived as a collection of hillside baches, nestled on a steep incline in the stunning Marlborough Sounds. The wooden structures, which range from one- to three bedrooms, have polished wood ceilings, wooden deck terraces and large window walls that slide open. Views from the bed and comfortable living rooms are beautiful – the soothing waters of the Charlotte Sound and the gently rising, lushly green hills that make up this special northern part of New Zealand’s South Island. The sounds’ coves are studded with small lodges – the multi-day Queen Charlotte trek is one of the country’s most popular – but the Bay of Many Coves Resort is the only five-star (it’s also part of New Zealand’s Luxury Lodges collection).

Run by Murray McCaw and his wife, Elaine, the resort is situated around a marina and includes a café, casual lunch and fine dining restaurant, a small pool area and a spa housed in a structure so lofted that it appears to be a treehouse. Steep pathways snake around to the eleven baches, which are closely clustered, though none share walls. The rest of the property’s 100 acres extend out and – mostly – up, and guests are treated to some challenging hiking right on property (the Lookout Point hike is a popular one, thanks to the rewarding view towards Picton and the Cook’s Straight).

If you look at the Bay of Many Coves resort on a map, it might appear as if you can simply walk up to join the Queen Charlotte’s trek, but in reality, the climb is so steep that the resort discourages this. Rather, guests are picked up by one of the many water taxis cruising the sound and dropped directly at the trek for a multi-hour hike (armed with a packed lunch), then gathered back at the end of the day. Other day trips include fishing tours, visiting the local farms for mussels and salmon, or arranging an eco-tour of nearby Motuara Island, home to blue penguins (the world’s smallest).

But even hyper-active types have a tendency to quickly settle into the resort’s laid-back rhythm. A stay here is about enjoying the incredible natural setting – since inception, the resort has planted some 13,000 native trees, and a walk quickly turns into horticultural exploration. The water of the Queen Charlotte Sound seems to change colors all day long – from flat grey in the mornings and the piercing sparkle of midday to hazy afternoons and early evenings with light that looks straight out of a Vermeer painting. Even go-go-go New Yorkers might find themselves completely content sitting on their terrace with a book and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. Early in the morning, the symphony of bird song borders on a Disney movie – New Zealand birds are known for making up for what they might lack in the looks department with absolutely spectacular voices.

The comfortably outfitted rooms come equipped with kitchenettes, stocked with teas and coffee, as well as snacks, beer and wine. But while the set-up might inspire ideas of self-catering, the cuisine at the resort is so memorable that most guests choose one of the inclusive meal plans. Chef Francisco Sabando originally hails from Chile, but years of working across New Zealand have created in him a remarkable touch for showcasing the local bounty – salmon, blue cod, lamb, venison – in new and innovative ways. During a recent meal, nothing was overcomplicated: ceviche of local scallop had just the right spice; king salmon came pickled in beet roots, intensifying its crimson color; and loin of venison was served with a touch of chocolate jus and dried blackberries. Most guests opt for the wine-paired tasting menu at least one of the nights – the sommelier and chef work closely together finding the perfect, mostly New Zealand, vintages to complement the food. The pairing of an aged Giesen Auguste Sauvignon Blanc with a rustic ostrich tartare was a particularly bold and fitting choice.

Meals are served in a glass-paneled dining room that looks across the bay as the sun sets and the moon rises. The best part is the walk back up to your room after dinner – the air is sea-scented, the hillside unfolds dark and imposing, and the quiet is absolute.

Chalet Looking Sout at Blanket Bay, Queenstown, New Zealand

Blanket Bay

In the 1970s, when an American couple bought the Blanket Bay property, it abutted a 65,000-acre working sheep station, and sheep still graze on the hillside. Back in the 1970s, Tom and Pauline Tusher figured that one day they might build a cabin so they could fly-fish on vacation, but after Tom retired from running Levi Strauss, their simple cabin grew into a grand lodge with 13 guest rooms. (Soon after Blanket Bay opened as a hotel, in the late ’90s, its reputation for exquisite scenery, fine service and gorgeous rooms reportedly enticed Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston to come for their honeymoon.)

The design of the lodge, inside and out, owes less to New Zealand influences than to the Tushers’ time in the American West. Astonishing mountain views as well as an enormous rock fireplace, an imposing antler chandelier and log beams dominate the great room. Salvaged wood floors and railroad ties give the lodge an antique patina, and whimsical fabrics printed with fishing ties and duck decoys add to the feeling that you’re in someone’s home.

My favorite touch was the “excursion” room, downstairs, where guests can plot the following day’s activities on the giant map of the area on one wall. A helicopter jaunt to an obscure stretch of river for fly-fishing and a picnic, perhaps? Or a drop-off somewhere along the Milford Trek for hiking the least touristed bit? Horses can be saddled up, kayaks launched. Satisfying any adventurous urge seems so easy and pleasurable when you know that a wine cellar and spa await you on your return. And when the guests gather in the den to have cocktails and trade tales of the day’s exploits, the conviviality is infectious.

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Eagle's Nest Villas

A collection of five contemporary style villas set within a 75-acre estate on a peninsula overlooking the Bay of Islands, Eagle’s Nest offers the ultimate home-away-from-home stay. The property’s small collection of uber sleek, modern accommodations range from one to four bedrooms, each uniquely positioned and designed to maximize and enhance their view over lush landscape and the vibrant sea beyond. Eagle’s Nest villas feature large, floor-to-ceiling glass windows or doors and many include vast, furnished outdoor spaces (some with private pools and jacuzzis) giving guests the sense that they are floating above the ocean. Clean lines and natural materials create a contemporary and casually elegant aesthetic that is warmed with original artwork and the occasional antique furnishing.

While the property does not offer public space or the facilities of a proper lodge, all villas are abundantly stocked with food and beverages and an impressive roster of fantastic private chefs are available for hire, along with personal trainers and spa therapists for those seeking in-villa training and treatments. Eagle’s Nest’s close proximity to the town of Russell makes it a great option for those who enjoy being close to local life. With a few buzzy restaurants and quaint mom and pop shops to browse, the charming, seaside summer town has ample opportunity for families and couples to take advantage of leisure time here. Moreover, Eagle’s Nest allows guests to explore all of the best activities of the region, including sailing, cycling, fishing, scuba diving, horse trekking and golf.

There is a small on-site management team on hand to assist with transfer and activity arrangements along with additional for-hire services like butlers, chauffeurs, dry cleaning and catering.

Exterior View - Eichardt's Private Hotel, Queenstown, New Zealand

Eichardt’s Private Hotel

Charming, stylish Eichardt’s sits at the edge of the marina looking much like a saloon from a western frontier town. Originally opened as a pub with rooms in the mid 1800s, when gold drew an onslaught of newcomers to this area, the hotel today occupies the original historic building. The cozy bar/tapas restaurant downstairs has a whiff of historic lore, thought all interiors are deeply stylish.

There are seven suites upstairs—five in the original structure and two in the modern add-on—all of them well-sized, apartment-style extravaganzas. Three of them face Lake Wakatipu, and at night, guests are treated to sunset panoramas from the comfort of their rooms. The luckiest guests booked into Room Number One get the extra perk of a balcony from where they can gaze across town and perhaps be reminded of the days when Eichardt’s was called the Queen’s Arms. There is also a penthouse suite at the top of the hotel, and down the street are three lakefront apartments and a residence.

Rooms focus around large gas-burning fireplaces and king-size beds that sit up a couple of stairs for an elevated view. The industrial-chic design scheme makes the most by mixing stone, dark wood and charcoal/black iron, but everything is accented by softening touches like large flower arrangements, skylights above the bed and in the bathrooms, and comfortable furniture with colorful pillows and throws.

There’s not much of a lobby, so guests either spend time in their comfortably sized rooms, in the cozy pub (where breakfast is also served) or in the charming sitting room, another blast from the past with gorgeous artwork, deep cushy couches and chairs and complimentary whiskey served in the afternoons when light floods the room, catching the antique mirrors. It’s a lovely spot for a breather at the end of an active Queenstown day, and just another corner of Eichardt’s where past and present beautifully meet.

Exterior View - Hapuku Lodge, South Island, New Zealand

Hapuku Lodge

If Hapuku Lodge, one of New Zealand’s most renowned, feels a little like stepping into a childhood dream, that’s because it is. Growing up in Wellington, owner Tony Wilson was passionate about building treehouses with his brothers, and so this lodge grew from the idea of creating a permanent way of waking up surrounded by branches and leaves. The Swiss Family Robinson–style structures – there are five – look cool on pictures but not until you’re standing in one can you fully appreciate the whimsy.

The boxy, wooden rooms are elevated on high stilts and marvelously framed by native New Zealand trees and vegetation (for every guest who checks in, the lodge plants a native tree). Clad in wooden slats and branches, the houses blend into the vegetation to a point – remaining freestanding enough so that views around them are uninterrupted. And what views they are. The back of the room, outfitted with two rocking chairs and a wood-burning fireplace, overlook the pastures and fields of Hapuku’s deer farm, while the front of them, housing a stunning bathroom with floor-to-ceiling windows, look toward the blues of the sea. And even though the treehouses are relatively close together, the design and landscaping makes for privacy.

Interiors are bright and cheerful, with loads of tree references, including a green-painted ceiling, wooden slabs as headboards, even branch-shaped handles on the furniture. A small balcony affords great star-gazing opportunities, as does the large Jacuzzi bathtub. The floor plan is open, so the bathrooms leads seamlessly into the bedroom which culminates in the sitting corner with the fireplace. Two of the Treehouses also have a downstairs bedroom, a great choice for families.

For those traveling with a family, know that the Hapuku treehouses are surely the accommodations kids will remember the most during their New Zealand trip. And everyone will appreciate the lodge's wonderful cuisine and the fact that friendly manager Chris Sturgeon is passionate about the Kaikoura area and can happily make recommendations on what to see and do during a visit, including where to see baby seals, go sea kayaking and embark on fishing excursions.

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building emerging from trees onto river
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Huka Lodge

One of New Zealand’s premier lodges, this intimate 26-suite property along the banks of the Waikato river is situated just upstream from Huka Falls.

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looking at residential style hotel on hill overlooking lake with mountains on other side
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Matakauri Lodge

In driving distance to Queenstown, but set on a gloriously serene perch overlooking Lake Wakatipu, Matakauri Lodge is a New Zealand showstopper.
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Daffodils at Otahuna Lodge, South Island, New Zealand

Otahuna Lodge

Set in the rolling hills outside Christchurch, Otahuna is an elegant country house retreat. When Americans Hall Cannon and Miles Refo purchased the property, the largest historic house in all of New Zealand, they kept many of the period details, but updated rooms with modern comforts like iPod docks and oversized bathrooms with soaking tubs. With only seven suites, each unique, Otahuna feels very much like a private home.

The lodge is blessed with an extraordinary chef and he and his team spend their days dreaming up new delights: freshly baked rosemary focaccia, house cured prosciutto, hand rolled pasta. One reason everything is so delicious is that so many of the ingredients come from the orchard and potager behind the lodge, where they grow more than 120 varieties of fruits, vegetables, nuts and mushrooms, including heirloom tomatoes, kaffir limes, mulberries and porcinis. Meals are eaten family style in the light-filled modern kitchen or the formal dining room. The staff is very attentive, and guests feel wonderfully spoiled.

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Suite at Sofitel Auckland, Auckland, New Zealand

Sofitel Auckland

Surprisingly, New Zealand’s largest city doesn’t have a real winner in the luxury hotel scene (where is the Eichardt’s of Auckland?). Currently, the Sofitel, located at the entrance of the Viaduct Harbour and in walking distance to most major sights, jostles for the top position with the Hilton (the Langham is tired and in dire need of a make over). The French-run hotel has a lot going for it – redone entirely in 2012, it feels fresh and modern, with its 172 rooms and suites done in a chocolate-beige-white color scheme, with comfortable king-sized beds, floor-to-ceiling windows and large bathrooms, with separate tubs and showers.

You yearn for a little more personality in the somewhat confusingly laid-out common spaces, including a lobby lounge that overlooks interior pools and courtyards but doesn’t really come together in the Zen way the architect presumably had in mind. The staff, however, including a plugged-in and speedy concierge team, is extremely friendly and works hard to keep guests – many of who are passing through town on business – happy. In the evening, the property’s Sabrage Bar on the ground floor has a surprisingly good mix of locals and visitors and a nice menu of local wines. It’s a nice spot for a cocktail or glass of wine before heading out to the trendy Wynyard Quarter to dinner. The fact that many Auckland sights and restaurants are within walking distance is the property’s greatest draw.

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Aerial View - Solitaire Lodge, North Island, New Zealand

Solitaire Lodge

In the early 19th century, Europeans who came to visit New Zealand were usually drawn by a single destination: the Pink and White Terraces near Lake Rotorua. Formed by geothermal waters, the terraces were often referred to as the eight wonder of the world. They were destroyed when Mount Tarawera erupted in 1886 in a blast so powerful that it could be heard on South Island. Today, the spacious guest rooms of the aptly named Solitaire Lodge look toward this now dormant volcano, reminding in-the-know visitors that they are staying in New Zealand’s original tourism center – and in one of its most beautiful regions.

Rotorua itself has become a commercial hot bed for extreme sports and a touristy scene (although the excellent Rotorua Museum deserves a visit). How refreshing then that Solitaire is about a 30-minute drive east of town, nestled in a valley that’s studded with lakes (in all, there are 17). The lodge has been around since 1980, and some of the architecture looks a bit dated. The current owners, however, have wisely invested in the room interiors, which feel fresh and modern with floor-to-ceiling windows, skylights, new carpets and a chic cream-and-white color scheme. The nine guest suites have sizeable bed, living and bathrooms, and come with beautiful views. All have a separate shower and bathtub – the best of which are positioned in a window for prime lake views.

Not that you are limited to bathing in your room. Even today, the Rotorua is full of hot pools warmed by geothermal steam, and right across the lake from Solitaire, guests can visit a series of pools (early in the morning, you have them all to yourself) tucked into a lush green forest. The Solitaire team works hard overall to show their guests the authentic parts of an area that has become a bit too commercialized for their taste. There’s a rugged mountain biking trek through a thermal forest; a hike to a secluded waterfall; a helicopter tour to the steaming White Island, with a touch down on a volcano crater closer to home. On property, activities are a bit more limited – the grounds are not massive – but guests can take advantage of a number of water toys, including kayaks for lakeside exploring.

Back in the main lodge, the ambience is laid-back and casual. The library is full of great books about New Zealand, the fire starts going mid-afternoon, and the bar is stocked with local wines and whiskeys. Dinner at the moment is a five-course affair with a menu that changes every night (all rates at Solitaire include all meals due to the remote location), but the owners and the chefs are considering adding some small-plate, a la carte dining options. Judging from the current, extremely high level of cooking here, it will be interesting what the chefs dream up for a more tapas-style New Zealand–inspired menu.

After dinner, some guests linger by the fire for a night cap but many head to bed in order to be up again with the rising sun. It erupts from behind the mountains, transforming the smooth lake into a limpid palate of yellows, silvers and blues, and looking out from your room at Solitaire, you feel an affinity with those first Rotorua visitors in the early 1800s who saw those same landscapes and – surely – felt the same awe.

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The Boatshed

The casual-cool Boatshed, on Waiheke Island, is set on a hillside above Little Oneroa Beach and has views of the bay, always dotted by boats. Its suites are tucked into different wooden structures, including a boat shed (of course), as well as an incredibly romantic lighthouse-style tower (complete with wooden deck) and two freestanding clapboard bungalows.

Interiors are designer friendly and boast a nautical theme, with blue and white color schemes, overstuffed couches like the ones found in New England summer cottages and sailing memorabilia. Floors are reclaimed, stripped wood, and some rooms come with fireplaces and freestanding bathtubs. Best of all, the lovely team behind this cute lodge – there are just five suites and the two bungalows – has put a lot of thought into the amenities, which include beach bags, sun tan lotion, umbrellas and sun hats.

As with all properties belonging to the Luxury Lodges of New Zealand group, the Boatshed places a firm emphasis on food and wine – meals are a multi-course affair here, and some of the fruit and vegetables are grown in a lovely kitchen garden on property. (Another highlight is the Waiheke Island–roasted coffee for breakfast.)

Waiheke has touches of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket – on a much smaller scale. Guests can rent bikes to explore (though be aware that the island is quite hilly, so it's a work out) or walk to Oneroa and Little Oneroa beaches, both of which are excellent for swimming during the summertime. You can also stroll into Oneroa village, one of the few places in all of New Zealand that manages a collection of some cute shops with locally made treasures, as well as arts and craft studios. And then, of course, there are the wineries: Waiheke is known for a few terrific vineyards and olive groves that can be sampled (read more about the wineries here). At the end of the day, guests return to a sumptuous four-course meal in a candle-lit, seaside ambience that's supremely romantic.

view of exterior of hotel entrance overlooking bay in background
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The Farm at Cape Kidnappers

Emerald hills and 800-foot cliffs plunge into the brilliant blue ocean at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, which is also a sheep farm and golf destination.
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View of Flockhill house with pool and mountains in the background

The Homestead at Flockhill

A staffed, private four-bedroom villa, the Homestead at Flockhill makes a wonderful base from which to explore the Southern Alps.
master bedroom of hotel suite with king bed and fireplace and creamy yellow walls
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The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs

The first of the Robertson luxury lodges in New Zealand, The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs is still the property to book in the northern Bay of Islands.
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The Sofitel Queenstown Hotel & Spa

hotel lodge building along a calm water edge with green hills behind it

Wharekauhau Lodge

In 2010, U.S.-based couple Bill and Carol Foley purchased a working sheep station in one of the North Island’s most scenic corners: the Wairarapa region. One imagines that driving towards the glorious country estate for the first time, they were enchanted by the same scenic that guests experience today. The drive from Wellington may just take one-and-a-half hours, but it is one of such dramatic landscapes that by the time you arrive at Wharekauhau – which is actually pronounced Foray-ko-ho– you feel transported into a different world.

The bucolic pastures are dotted with sheep and cattle; the cliffs ahead of you drop sharply down to a black sand beach; and the wild Pacific stretches as far as the eye can see. And just as your mind tries to compute the sheer natural beauty of this countryside retreat, you arrive at the main lodge and are bowled over yet again – this time by the stylish interiors of New Zealand designer Virginia Fischer.

Banish all thoughts of a rustic farming lodge with dark wood and checkered throws. Fischer, who has also designed Queenstown's Matakauri Lodge and Eichardt’s Private Hotel, is a master of airy, soaring spaces, and at Wharekauhau’s main lodge, one room is more beautiful than the next, from a blue-and-white day room with whicker chairs and framed botanical drawings to a fantastic open kitchen area, whose selves are lined with potted herbs and brass kitchen utensils. Views throughout are focused on the sea in the distance or the lodge’s surrounding gardens.

The same great mix of style and comfort continues in the 13 guest cottages, which are clustered in two groups beside the main lodge, making it easy for guests to walk to and from meals and activities (instead of getting lost on this rather massive property). The spacious living/bedrooms have high ceilings with white-painted beams, large gas fireplaces and comfortable couches and chairs. The walk-n closet is the size of some Manhattan apartments and the bathroom has deep soaking tubs and separate showers. The cluster of Stormwatch Cottages is closer to the bluff that overlooks the ocean, while the Wetland Cottages are closer to the main lodge – but every room has wonderful views and a sense of space and privacy. There are patios for evening cocktails, even though most guests choose to mingle at the main lodge pre-dinner, chatting with the charming lodge manager and comparing the days’ activities.

And unlike at some other remote country retreats, activities at Wharekauhau abound. The property itself has several hiking and walking paths, and guests can take one of the mountain bikes for a ride, or practice their clay target shooting or archery skills. The Farm Tour is a popular option, which is a two-plus-hour exploration of the property and includes a sheep shearing demonstration and a short walk through a beautiful forest of ferns and native trees. Acclaimed New Zealand wine region Martinborough is a 35-minute drive away, and guests can go on a behind-the-scenes wine tour through some of the area’s best wineries. Even on rainy days, there’s an indoor pool, a pool table, board games, a well-stocked library and in-room spa treatments that can be arranged.

You will need to be really active during the day in order to feel deserving of the bountiful meals at Wharekauhau. Suffice it to say that the breakfast buffet includes five types of homemade bread and that the wonderful, friendly staff will not let you get away with ordering just coffee (and they will be spot-on that the eggs and bacon on sourdough they bring you will indeed be the best of your trip). In the evening, the indulgent cuisine, paired with local wines, is a showstopper. Lamb and beef figure prominently, but this being the coast, there are also wonderful seafood dishes and much of the produce and fruit is grown right on property.

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