Bay of Many Coves

Accessible only by water taxi, helicopter or sea plane, the Bay of Many Coves Resort is nestled in the lush landscapes of the Queens Charlotte Sound and offers incredible seclusion and lush landscapes.

• The sense of isolation and serenity
• The challenging Lookout Hike with spectacular views
• The delicious cuisine by young Chilean chef Francisco Sabando
• Watching for dolphins from the rooms’ outdoor terraces

In New Zealand, a Kiwi’s “bach” is the equivalent of an American's cabin in the woods. The Bay of Many Coves resort was conceived as a collection of hillside baches, nestled on a steep incline in the stunning Marlborough Sounds. The wooden structures, which range from one- to three bedrooms, have polished wood ceilings, wooden deck terraces and large window walls that slide open. Views from the bed and comfortable living rooms are beautiful – the soothing waters of the Charlotte Sound and the gently rising, lushly green hills that make up this special northern part of New Zealand’s South Island. The sounds’ coves are studded with small lodges – the multi-day Queen Charlotte trek is one of the country’s most popular – but the Bay of Many Coves Resort is the only five-star (it’s also part of New Zealand’s Luxury Lodges collection).

Run by Murray McCaw and his wife, Elaine, the resort is situated around a marina and includes a café, casual lunch and fine dining restaurant, a small pool area and a spa housed in a structure so lofted that it appears to be a treehouse. Steep pathways snake around to the eleven baches, which are closely clustered, though none share walls. The rest of the property’s 100 acres extend out and – mostly – up, and guests are treated to some challenging hiking right on property (the Lookout Point hike is a popular one, thanks to the rewarding view towards Picton and the Cook’s Straight).

If you look at the Bay of Many Coves resort on a map, it might appear as if you can simply walk up to join the Queen Charlotte’s trek, but in reality, the climb is so steep that the resort discourages this. Rather, guests are picked up by one of the many water taxis cruising the sound and dropped directly at the trek for a multi-hour hike (armed with a packed lunch), then gathered back at the end of the day. Other day trips include fishing tours, visiting the local farms for mussels and salmon, or arranging an eco-tour of nearby Motuara Island, home to blue penguins (the world’s smallest).

But even hyper-active types have a tendency to quickly settle into the resort’s laid-back rhythm. A stay here is about enjoying the incredible natural setting – since inception, the resort has planted some 13,000 native trees, and a walk quickly turns into horticultural exploration. The water of the Queen Charlotte Sound seems to change colors all day long – from flat grey in the mornings and the piercing sparkle of midday to hazy afternoons and early evenings with light that looks straight out of a Vermeer painting. Even go-go-go New Yorkers might find themselves completely content sitting on their terrace with a book and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. Early in the morning, the symphony of bird song borders on a Disney movie – New Zealand birds are known for making up for what they might lack in the looks department with absolutely spectacular voices.

The comfortably outfitted rooms come equipped with kitchenettes, stocked with teas and coffee, as well as snacks, beer and wine. But while the set-up might inspire ideas of self-catering, the cuisine at the resort is so memorable that most guests choose one of the inclusive meal plans. Chef Francisco Sabando originally hails from Chile, but years of working across New Zealand have created in him a remarkable touch for showcasing the local bounty – salmon, blue cod, lamb, venison – in new and innovative ways. During a recent meal, nothing was overcomplicated: ceviche of local scallop had just the right spice; king salmon came pickled in beet roots, intensifying its crimson color; and loin of venison was served with a touch of chocolate jus and dried blackberries. Most guests opt for the wine-paired tasting menu at least one of the nights – the sommelier and chef work closely together finding the perfect, mostly New Zealand, vintages to complement the food. The pairing of an aged Giesen Auguste Sauvignon Blanc with a rustic ostrich tartare was a particularly bold and fitting choice.

Meals are served in a glass-paneled dining room that looks across the bay as the sun sets and the moon rises. The best part is the walk back up to your room after dinner – the air is sea-scented, the hillside unfolds dark and imposing, and the quiet is absolute.

Couples and families with older children – and everyone needs to be an outdoorsy type. Besides hiking and boating, there’s not a whole lot to do at Bay of Many Coves, and that’s the point. You come here to unplug, read and marvel at the beautiful sound views. People who need constant entertainment – adults and children alike – will not be happy here. Also, know that the resort is built into a steep hillside and while golf carts are available, it’s not recommended for anyone with issues climbing stairs or hills.

The resort works with the local “bus,” ie the water taxi Cougar Line, which has daily scheduled departures from Picton. A straight shot to the resort would take 25 minutes, but the water taxi might make a few more stops in nearby coves (during a recent trip, a local had left her wallet in town, so our taxi made the delivery). It’s an exceptionally beautiful journey – think of it as sightseeing, but if you want to get straight from Picton to Bay of Many Coves, then a private water transfer can of course be arranged. Other means of getting there: helicopter or water plane.