Beaches

No matter where they live or whether they are young or old, fit or less than fit, cariocas go to the beach year-round: it’s Rio’s living room, lounge, gym and main playground—and a key part of what makes Rio, Rio.

To go to the beach like a carioca, remember that less is more: bathing suits (bikinis and Speedos are the norm); a kanga (pareo) around the waist for women, maybe a T-shirt for men; the ubiquitous Havaianas (flip-flops) on the feet for both. A straw bag will carry essentials: sunscreen, a hat, a book, change for a snack. That’s it. Chairs and umbrellas can be rented there, and food and drinks are plentiful, offered nonstop by vendors (a classic: ice-cold maté and Biscoito Globo, a crunchy, salty toastlike treat).

Hot beaches: Posto 9, Ipanema (musicians, colorful characters, gay crowd); Posto 10, Ipanema (stylish locals); and Pepê, Barra (the young and the beautiful). Next door to Ipanema, Leblon is more tranquil, with a local crowd and dramatic Dois Irmãos hill to the north. A little further off is Joatinga, beautiful and secluded below a residential area on a hill. Farther north (and harder to access) lays the idyllic Prainha, wild and filled with beautiful girls and surfers.

Tip: For beautiful and very “carioca” sunset, head to Arpoador, the rock which divides Ipanema and Leblon. It may be crowded but it’s worth it.