Happy Valley Races

Seeing a race here is an absolute must-do to capture the real essence of Hong Kong. The twice-weekly races—Wednesday night at Happy Valley and weekends at outlying Sha Tin—show the city in all its money-mad, gambling-crazy colors. The turnover from horse racing is staggering: every year billions are wagered, and the amount spent on one race can easily surpass the entire day’s course revenues in the U.S. and the U.K.

The races are attended enthusiastically by all levels of society from the tai-pans (big bosses) of the major companies, who entertain clients with Champagne and gourmet food in private boxes; to the manual workers on the terraces, who drink beer and eat fried chicken wings. Happy Valley, hemmed in by skyscrapers, is the most atmospheric course and offers quick post-race access to restaurants, bars and nightclubs. A private-box package that includes food and drink can be booked through the Jockey Club: the minimum wager is just $1.25.