La Usina

Patagonia’s big mountains aren’t ideal for little kids. But families that want a bonding trip to the region before the tots get older can find ways to enjoy the natural setting in less adventurous ways. Plan an afternoon at La Usina, a rustic countryside restaurant set in a picturesque valley halfway between El Calafate and the Perito Moreno glacier. The restaurant is built into the ruins of an old mill and serves as a base for excursions such as mountain biking, easy walking, archery and horseback riding. When I visited, a young family was returning for an afternoon lunch after a morning spent on horses, shepherded by a real-life gaucho. The youngest child, who couldn’t have been more than five years old, sat comfortably on the same horse as his father, while his older sibling rode a smaller pony. The horses looked as calm as any parent could wish and the terrain gentle enough for young equestrians not entirely at ease in a saddle. I did not get a chance to try the food, but my guide said the restaurant is known for its traditional lamb roasts.