Just Back From: Courchevel

Once a quaint French ski resort, Courchevel has morphed from a place that—at least on the surface—is all about extravagance and the scene. As you drive into the village of Courchevel 1850, you’ll quickly see the cars transition from Peugeots and Volkswagens to Lamborghinis and Bentleys; you’ll see a string of designer stores lining the streets from Dior to Louis Vuitton, Loro Piana and Fendi, as well as an array of Michelin-starred restaurants; and you’ll quickly spot the Gucci-branded chairlifts of the Jardin Alpin. There’s no missing the fashion of the visitors who are dressed to the nines Courchevel-style, on and off the slopes.

Courchevel is part of Les Trois Vallées, or “the three valleys,” which is the largest connected ski area in the world. Seven resorts are linked across the three valleys: Courchevel, Méribel, Brides-les-Bains, Saint-Martin-de-Belleville, Les Menuires, Val Thorens and Orelle. In Courchevel, there are multiple different villages, each with a unique atmosphere. Courchevel 1850 is the highest of the villages, at 1,850 meters (roughly 6,000 feet), and it is by far the most glamorous whereas the other villages are considerably more laid-back. Its high altitude means that 1850 has more reliable snow through the winter and, no surprise, it is also home to the area’s most luxurious hotels.

While Courchevel is certainly a pricey ski resort, skiing here and across Europe is still cheaper than at top resorts in the U.S. when you factor in the cost of lift tickets and rentals. It is also not difficult to get to, as most visitors will fly in and out of Geneva (there are many direct options from the U.S.), which is a bit more than a two hour drive from Courchevel—or there are a variety of helicopter services on offer, including Blade.

Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley and I just spent a week in Courchevel for our project with the Palaces de France shooting a video series to showcase how the Palaces are a level above five-star hotels, and just what makes them so special. There are 31 Palaces across France, and five of them are in Courchevel: Le K2 Palace, Oetker Collection’s L’Apogée, Cheval Blanc Courchevel, Les Airelles and Barrière les Neiges.

While in Courchevel, we explored the Palaces and boutique hotels, as well as the area’s shops and restaurants.

Here are some favorite finds from the trip:

• Apoil Cashmere for cashmere.
• Sease for elegant outdoor gear, mostly menswear. (This is a new brand from the Loro Piana family.)

Many who visit Courchevel don’t actually ski. They come exclusively for the scene, meaning restaurant reservations are a must for lunch and dinner and need to be made in advance. For dinner service, the second seating (often 10:30 p.m.) is much rowdier and many restaurants transition to more of a club scene as the evening goes on.

• Le Sarkara for a two-Michelin-starred gastronomic (i.e. savory) pastry experience by 2024’s World’s Best Pastry Chef, Sébastien Vauxion.
• Le Bottleneck for cheese (fondue!) and grilled meats. The escargot is also a standout.
• La Terrasse de Cheval Blanc for the slopeside scene and live music.
• Le Chalet de Pierres for the perfect mountain lunch.
• Le Cap Horn and La Folie Douce for the best party scenes on the mountain.
• La Table des Airelles for a buffet fit for royalty. Think of all of your most indulgent cravings… unlimited sushi, raw bar, caviar, the list goes on.

Tip: For guests staying at Aman Le Mélézin and Les Airelles, there is an opportunity to opt in to their half-board programs at all restaurants at both properties, and also at the popular Le Chalet de Pierres and La Folie Douce on the mountain.