Defying Expectations
Travel to Saudi can be divided into two distinct periods: before tourist visas existed (pre-2019 when women were still required to wear hijabs and abayas) and after, when foreigners were welcomed and social liberalization, including the end of an enforced modest dress code and segregated dining, returned. I feel lucky to have seen both periods; yet the country is still in fast transformation mode. Among the striking things that have changed in the three years since my last visit are an almost un...
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