Sorrento's Siren Song: On Slowing Down in Campania

Citrus and brine—Sorrento greets visitors first with an intoxicating assault on the senses. A fishing town on the Bay of Naples, Sorrento has been loosely associated with the myth of the Sirens since antiquity. (Tradition has it that three mermaids near Punta Campanella enchanted the waters, luring the seafarers who sailed by). Here, the narrow and winding streets are captivating, as are the weather-beaten boats and their glittering nets bobbing hypnotically on the cerulean gulf. Time moves a bit slower, and golden hour seems to cast her spell just a little bit longer. If Sorrento’s Sirens call, answer.

Best explored on foot, Sorrento’s maze-like alleyways are densely packed with boutiques and gelaterias, restaurant seating overflowing onto the streets and scenes that feel distinctly Italian—like old men playing chess under a historic church alcove. You can’t turn a corner without seeing a steeple peeking above the buildings or a fresh produce stand with lemons the size of softballs. Getting lost is a part of the magic, but there are a few shops and sites that shouldn’t be missed—like Garguilo & Jannuzzi, an emporium of everything Sorrento. From beloved local handicrafts like lacework and marquetry inlay pieces to ceramics, jewelry and more—this is the ideal boutique to grab a gift or souvenir. The marquetry inlay pieces are painstakingly crafted into consoles, side tables and ultra-chic game tables (the top, a beautiful Neopolitan pastoral scene, was removed and flipped to showcase a hidden poker table, chess board and backgammon set—the only thing that stopped me from purchasing was the size of my Brooklyn apartment).

Stop by Balleri for buttery-leather handmade shoes and Rosalinda Acampora for bold ceramics with Italian motifs of sardines, tomatoes and—of course—lemons. (Think: Bauhaus geometric design meets eclectic grandma’s kitchen.)

One of the most mystical aspects of Sorrento is how the verdant landscape and buildings coexist—from plants growing through cracks or crawling up the cliffside to lush window boxes hanging from balconies and overgrown squares in the middle of town. The scenery is dramatic and fairytale-esque. Groups gather to stare into Vallone dei Mulini, where vegetation has overgrown an ancient sawmill or quietly walk through the Sorrento Cloisters, a greenery-filled 14th-century monastery-turned-art center. During my visit, photographer Raffaele Celentano’s exhibit “The Italians” was on display—black and white photographs of stolen kisses, nuns walking and speedy vespa rides—juxtaposing the candid beauty of modern and ancient Italy. For afternoon gelato, the best people-watching can be done (cone in hand) from Gelateria Primavera on Sorrento’s main street, Corso Italia.

Located in the heart of Sorrento, the historic Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria is a serene escape on five acres of citrus groves and gardens, hugging the cliffside with expansive views over the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. Guests can relax poolside, curl up with a book in the parlor (complete with antique furniture, fresco ceilings and gargantuan potted plants) or dine on fresh, seasonal offerings at Michelin-starred Terrazza Bosquet Restaurant—all best enjoyed with a “Guido Royale.” Invented by Ritz Paris bartender Colin Field during his stay, the cocktail is a spin on a limoncello spritz. Named for the current owner, Guido Fiorentino, the refreshing drink is a blend of prosecco, the property’s bespoke limoncello recipe with carpaccio sliced lemons from the garden. A jewel on the Neapolitan Riviera since 1834, Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria has been welcoming royalty, celebrities and dignitaries for five generations of owners. The famous Italian tenor, Enrico Caruso, lived in the hotel for a month in 1921, where a photo of him on the iconic back terrace was captured just weeks before his death. (Also on our radar: Maison la Minervetta, an art-filled boutique hotel just minutes from the center of town, complete with a grotto swimming pool overlooking the coastline.)

Just an hour from Naples, Sorrento is a jumping off point to discover the charms of southern Italy, without the traffic and international hordes of nearby Positano. As the Sirens would agree, the best way to explore is by taking to the sea—especially a private charter. Sail past the island of Capri with a quick stop to the otherworldly Blue Grotto (be prepared to lay completely flat to enter and let the gondoliers’ crooning love songs enchant) along with cave snorkeling and swimming around the Punta Campanella. Expect views of rugged rock formations and towering cliffs. One extravagant cliffside palazzo looks pulled from a James Bond villain storyboard (fittingly, it was a favorite vacation home of Mussolini).

End the excursion in Nerano, a petite fishing village with its own signature pasta dish—the aptly named Spaghetti Nerano. Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy may have put this creamy, zucchini pasta on the map for the masses, but the locals have known (and lovingly fought over) this delicacy for decades. Maria Grazia Restaurant, staking claim to the original recipe, is nestled between cliff and sea. On Sunday, multi-generations of families dine in their church clothes on oil-soaked sardines, fried calamari, fresh bread, peach sangria and more. The restaurant echoes of laughter, excited chatter and glasses clinking–and diners stealing moments of eyes-closed bliss when eating a bite that is just so good. The portions are large and the bespoke ceramic tableware is enviable.

For those wanting an epic vantage point of the surrounding area, hike the San Costanzo Mountain (long pants and good athletic shoes recommended). Pass by homes on the hilly roads leading to the hikes entrance, where smiling nonnas smashing olives wave hello.