Benesse House

As the only luxury resort on Naoshima Art Island, Benesse House was birthed from the idea that nature, architecture and art should coexist. A few nights at this museum-turned-hotel allows guests to discover the interactive exhibits and art museums sprinkled throughout an otherwise undeveloped island.

• That guests can access the Benesse House galleries and gardens after the museum closes to the public
• Yayoi Kusama’s famous Yellow Pumpkin, which sits on a dock at the hotel’s entrance
• The Tadao Ando–designed buildings, which form an interesting juxtaposition with the natural landscape

Benesse House opened in 1992 as a museum and hotel on Naoshima, a small island in the Seto Inland Sea. Consisting of only three square miles and home to around 3,000 residents, the destination’s lush countryside aesthetic, rustic beaches and remote location make it an ideal place to relax, unwind and explore. The passion project of Japanese businessman Soichiro Fukutake, a longtime patron of the arts, Naoshima has transformed from a relatively undeveloped island dependent upon fishing and agriculture into a center of modern art and architecture.

Naoshima’s emphasis on holistic engagement between the art, landscape, architecture and guests is felt everywhere, and a stay here is one of discovery. Visitors can rent electric bikes or Vespa scooters (international drivers licenses are required) and spend their days cruising around the island, uncovering and experiencing art treasures like James Turrell light installations, Monet paintings and de Saint Phalle outdoor sculptures. Japanese architect Tadao Ando designed the museum buildings and hotels, which have grown to include four lodging buildings along with two restaurants, a café and a small spa.

The property’s four separate buildings, no more than a 10-minute walk from one another, are each home to spacious rooms and suites. Neither ornate nor super plush, the minimal accommodations at Benesse House Hotel blend well with their natural surroundings, evoking the best of Japanese style. (It’s also worth noting that those expecting a pampering experience will be disappointed here, as the service is rather basic; for example, room service is not offered.) That said, the draw is the unique opportunity to spend a few days surrounded by art, including original pieces in the hotel rooms and public spaces. What’s more, a plethora of contemporary art is displayed throughout Benesse House’s galleries and grounds, so guests have access to what amounts to essentially private viewings long after closing time.

Set back from the beach and a 10-minute walk from the museum, the Park building rooms are most easily accessible from the lobby and surrounding public space. The guest rooms in this building are no-frills but do offer beautiful balconies with fabulous views of the Inland Sea and James Turrell drawings on the walls.

The Beach building sits closer to the sea and offers suites with rustic, private outdoor terraces for great views of the water, surrounding islands and Yayoi Kusama’s famous Yellow Pumpkin, which sits on a dock at the hotel’s entrance. These accommodations are more spacious, newer and right on the water; however, they can still be surprising in their sparseness.

Further up the hill, the Oval building houses six rooms with sweeping views over the sea. These are considered the most exclusive rooms on property, and the building is the most architecturally unusual in many respects. That said, Oval (along with the Museum building, detailed below) is one of the oldest, so the lodging can be disappointing.

The last of the property’s hotel rooms are found in the Museum building. These rooms, located inside of the Benesse House Museum, are the furthest from the main building, but allow guests to overnight inside the museum, closest to its precious artwork. While it is dated and only offers twin-bed rooms, there is an undeniable thrill for art-lovers, as guests of the Museum building are left alone at night with prints, paintings, sculptures and drawings by some of the world’s most prominent modern and contemporary artists.

Which building is best is a topic of popular debate, and the answer boils down to personal preference. Beach lovers will enjoy the Beach building’s proximity to the water; art lovers can savor the Museum building’s after-hours access; and design lovers will appreciate the unique architecture, sweeping vistas and works of art on display in the Oval building. But regardless of room type, it is the access to Naoshima and the surrounding islands that make this journey worth the trek.

While the island does have a few restaurants in its largest port villages, visitors should expect to take all of their meals on-property. The hotel’s Terrace restaurant, which is attached to the main Park building, serves buffet-style breakfast in front of the beach and features high ceilings and an airy, open feel. French cuisine is served at dinner with a menu featuring local fish, vegetables and meat. Atop the hill in the Museum is Benesse House’s second restaurant, Issen. Set inside the museum, Issen is open for breakfast and dinner, offering a traditional Japanese menu. The restaurant features sweeping views over the sea from its floor-to-ceiling glass windows.

**Indagare Tips: **Naoshima Art Island and its restaurants and museums have unusual hours of operation. Indagare will ensure your stay syncs well with opening hours. Private boats between islands are the preferred mode of transportation, so that your time is not dictated by ferry schedules, but small commuter ferries (which have irregular hours and closures) do run between ports.

Art and architecture lovers will be thrilled to spend a couple of nights exploring the impressive collection of works found here. Outdoor enthusiasts, who appreciate beautiful natural landscapes, and sea lovers, who aim to include some time near the water when they travel, will appreciate the diversification of including Naoshima on an otherwise city-oriented trip.

Those intrigued by interactive and immersive art exhibitions will find the leisurely pace and explorative nature of the Naoshima experience worthwhile. First adapters will find the trek to the islands an enjoyable respite and a discerning place to unwind with other in-the-know guests.