Chinatown

The Chinese are one of the oldest and largest immigrant communities in Bangkok, and their presence was one of the reasons the city expanded as rapidly as it did in the 19th century. Chinatown, on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, consists of a maddening labyrinth of tiny alleys, most lined with food stalls of all kinds and vendors selling everything from amulets and beaded jewelry to huge statues of the Buddha and bags of chili peppers. (If you purchase one of Nancy Chandler’s handy maps, you’ll find an entire section dedicated to Chinatown.)

It’s a good idea to visit this section of town with a guide, who can point out the highlights and then take the quickest route to the nearby Grand Palace and the temples. Sensitive souls should know that the smells they’ll encounter will be intense, especially in the heat, and that the heaps of animal parts, meat and fish (dried, picked, raw, still alive) are a vegetarian’s worst nightmare. Don’t miss the spectacular flower market, where an armful of orchids costs no more than three dollars, and the soaring halls where masses of spices, fruits and vegetables are sold.

Chinatown, and its subset of markets is best experiences with a local guide. Contact our bookings department for a specialized tour will kick off at the Ea Sae teahouse, which opened in 1929 and is where the old men of the neighborhood still start their mornings with cha-yen (iced tea) and gossip (you’ll find their wives in Lumpini Park, practicing tai chi). If you go alone, take a taxi to Yaowarat Road, then dive into any of the side lanes that lead to the river. Before you know it, you’ll be lost in the maze that is Bangkok’s Chinatown.