Colección Enrico Poli

The most controversial museum in the city, the Colección Poli is a private museum of incredible pre-Columbian artifacts and colonial treasures, including furniture, paintings and jewelry. The son of the original collector greets you at the town house gates, which he locks behind you, and guides the tours himself. An imposing and rather creepy character, he might have stepped out of a Dan Brown novel. The priceless religious items are fascinating (one room is filled with gold jewelry, crowns and statuary the equal of those in royal troves), but you have to endure Señor Poli’s questionable interpretation of history and the supremacy of colonialists. Question his version, and he’ll launch into a passionate defense. Many in Peru allege that the Poli treasures were stolen from churches and sacred sites and should be returned. For now, though, the only way to see them is at Señor Poli’s house and in his company. By appointment only. Tours are offered at 10 A.M. and 4 P.M., depending on demand, and last about an hour and half.

Beware: Señor Poli does not take kindly to those who ask to leave midway through.