SPQR

The regional Italian fare in SPQR’s cozy and ever-packed dining room never disappoints. SPQR, which is an acronym taken from the ancient Roman Empire, centers its attention on the cooking of Rome, and executive chef Matthew Accarino does it superbly. Accarino cooked at Craft and New York’s Per Se before arriving at this beloved restaurant on one of San Francisco’s most attractive streets. The menu is contemporary Italian, which translates into such dishes as linguini with wild boar ragout and fava beans; petrale sole with cauliflowers and capers; and faro-stuffed quail with Umbrian lentils. The wine list is nearly all Italian as well. The dining space is beautifully lit, has banquette seating along the walls and features an open kitchen, which always adds to a congenial vibe.