Casa Balthazar

A charming haven in the backstreets of Chiado, with far reaching views over Lisbon and old-fashioned comforts.

• That this small white-washed house has been in the same family since 1829
• The fresh flowers, the beautifully polished antiques, the obvious care that goes into looking after the hotel
• That the swimming pool is heated, a rare pleasure in Portugal

You wouldn’t know this little hotel was here, so discreet is its address behind the closed green door. It opens at the touch of the bell to reveal 20 rooms which cluster around a garden inset with a swimming pool. It is located in the middle of Chiado, just near the ruins of the Gothic Carmo church, the largest in Lisbon before the earthquake.

Inside, rooms are decorated with antiques, floors are limestone or wood with bathrooms fitted with black and white encaustic hydraulic tiles. Stone walls are exposed in places and throughout modern art overlayers.

The twenty rooms all vary, with three providing a hot tub on their terraces, allowing you a magnificent view over Lisbon’s red roofs beneath you. Some of the rooms have large terraces, others a little kitchenette with microwave, some come with bathtubs, some with showers, some with both, but all come with wooden floors and gleaming antiques. A half bottle of wine, tea and coffee are provided in your room on arrival but there is also complimentary Nespresso and tea available throughout the day. A freshly baked cake is always on offer too. It comes from the oldest patisserie in Lisbon, the Confeitaria Nacionall, which – also since 1829 – belongs to the same owners as Casa Balthazar.

The reception is open from 9am to 9pm. After these hours a mobile phone in each room calls the manager directly, should there be a need. Every guest has a front door key.

The small swimming pool in the garden is heated and is open throughout the year.

Only breakfast is provided here, but there are a multitude of good restaurants within walking distance. Breakfast itself comes from their bakery; think warm croissants and fresh bread and home-made jams.

People on a budget who do not want to compromise on quality. It is a charming, off-the-radar find which allows for immersion into Lisbon life.