Cristalino Lodge

Near the southern edge of the Amazon rainforest, Cristalino is a massive private preserve that protects a crucial tract of land and river, with a top-tier luxury lodge that immerses guests into Amazonian activities.

• The access to miles of hiking trails, allowing for a more active trip than most other Amazon hotels
• The floating dock, an ideal spot to spend the afternoon between activities
• The excellent guides and their customizable excursion opportunities, tailored daily to your interests

Getting to Cristalino involves witnessing firsthand just how endangered the entire Amazon is: an hour-ish, easy road transfer from Alta Floresta airport passes through rolling hills that, until recently, were covered in rainforest and today are a patchwork of farm and ranch land. It’s only when the car arrives at the Teles Pires, one of the largest Amazon tributaries, that travelers get a glimpse of wilderness, with towering, vine-draped trees shrouding both sides of the river for miles in either direction.

The riverbanks—and the 44-square-mile Cristalino preserve itself—are at the frontlines of deforestation, and provide a critical buffer between private farm land and state and federal parkland. Cristalino’s owner, Vitória da Riva Carvalho, inherited the land and, rather than open it up to farming or mining, signed into a national conservation program that permanently designates the property for preservation. Beginning in the mid-2000s, her son Alex began participating in the lodge’s operations as well, helping to transform it into one of Brazil’s most award-winning luxury retreats.

A scenic 30-minute boat ride transports guests from the brown waters of the Teles Pires up the Cristalino River, a smaller “dark water” jet-black tributary to the lodge’s dock. Cristalino’s 12 cabins are a minute walk into the forest from there, clustered in a garden grove which attracts butterflies and birds. Some of the cabins are multi-unit, with four one-bedroom suites, while others are one-bedroom standalone suites. All the cabins have simple, but beautiful interiors with light-colored woods, ceiling fans and rattan furnishings, plus private patios with outdoor showers. The entire set-up is extremely sustainable, and effectively zero waste. Cristalino has won numerous international awards for its commitment to conservation and sustainability, including *Travel + Leisure’*s Global Vision Awards and *Conde Nast Traveler’*s World Savers Awards.

Another minute’s walk through a forest trail takes guests from the cabins to the main lodge area, with its open-air restaurant and bar built on a teak deck surrounded by lush woodlands. Meals are included in any stay here, and the ever-changing daily menu highlights Brazilian specialties with local produce and fish. At night, it’s common for guests to congregate at the bar before and after dinner for caipirinhas or caipiroskas.

For activities, guests at Cristalino have seemingly endless options. Expert biologist guides lead small groups—maximum of eight people, similar to African safari excursions—on customized itineraries that usually include two daily outings. Depending on the season, these could entail kayaking through the flooded forest, climbing one of Cristalino’s two observation towers for sunrise above the canopy, boating along the Cristalino or Teles Pires rivers and, a rarity in the Amazon, hiking along the preserve’s 22 miles of trails, which have beautiful viewpoints thanks to the area’s varied terrain. During any of these activities, guests can expect to see quintessential Amazonian wildlife: various species of monkeys, tapirs, river otters, peccaries, snakes. Birders—professional and amateur—in particular, flock to Cristalino to see hundreds of species who call the preserve home. (During my stay, I felt like I was in an episode of *Planet Earth,*watching birds of all colors of the rainbow, including birds of paradise, toucans and hundreds of other species).

Between activities, guests can nap in their cabins (inside or on their private hammock) and enjoy a leisurely lunch. I also took the opportunity to soak up some Brazilian sun while lounging on the floating dock. And while Cristalino doesn’t have a pool, it does offer something more exciting: the opportunity to jump into an Amazon river.

Seasonality

Wet season (generally February and March) is when the river overflows its banks into the forest and there are also “cloud rivers” that form above the trees in the mornings. This time of year generally has mild temperatures, and is a great time to see monkeys (including babies), who are active during the season. Other animals, like tapirs, capybara, caiman and anaconda are harder to spot as they can find enough water within the forest and don’t need to congregate along the river.

Temperatures climb and waters recede in April and May.

Dry season (June through October) is typically the easiest time to spot animals because they congregate along the river’s edge to drink since there isn’t water in the forest anymore. Temperatures are the hottest this time of year.

Rains typically return in November, bringing with them cooler temperatures as well as the beginning of mating season for many species.

Nature and wildlife enthusiasts heading to the Amazon seeking customizable, active days. For travelers who require a spa or a pool, Anavilhanas Lodge may be a better alternative although its activities do not offer hiking and are less customizable.