Hotel de Toiras

In a prime location overlooking the harbor of St.-Martin, this Relais & Chateaux property is one of the island’s most coveted addresses to book.

• The antiques-filled sitting room on the ground floor with harbor views
• The individually styled guest rooms, each unique in layout and décor
• Enjoying a glass of local wine in the small but lush courtyard
• The harborside location

During the summer months, the seaside resort of St.-Martin-de-Ré can become mobbed. What a pleasure it is then to step into the hushed ambience of the Hotel de Toiras, in a central, harborside location but seemingly worlds away from the bustle.

Owners Didier and Olivier Le Calvez fell in love with this 17th-century mansion, the former home of a ship owner, and set out to restore it with great taste and style. Toiras opened in 2005; its sister property, Villa Clarisse, opened three years later. (The Calvezes themselves share a long history with the island: Didier is Rhéthais, and his mother was the mayor of Ré for many years.)

The lobby is a marine-blue sitting room with beautiful antiques, exposed white-painted ceiling beams and a large fireplace. It is elegant but not stuffy, a vibe that prevails throughout, thanks in large part to the lovely staff who know guests by name upon arrival.

The guest rooms and suites are each unique in layout and design, but all share precious fabrics, beautiful wallpapers and tasteful furnishings. The best come with views across the harbor (although be aware that during the busy summer months, St.-Martin is a scene until late at night, so you won’t be sleeping with the window open).

Each of the rooms is named after a figure that has played a role in the history of Île de Ré, like the junior suite Vauban, named after the architect of St.-Martin’s famous fortifications; the deluxe room Marechal de Toiras, after the illustrious nobleman who defended Ré from the Duke of Buckingham and his troops; and the split-level junior suite Champlain, who also visited the island.

The vibe is more romantic than it is suited for families (who might be happier in the more spacious grounds of Villa Clarisse). The restaurant is acclaimed for a big night out, but Toiras is also within walking distance of the more casual bistros. There is no spa or gym.