Hotel Gutkowski

The modestly priced Gutkowski is a best-kept secret in Syracuse: it is basic and offers few amenities, but rooms are modern and the best come with gorgeous vistas across the sea.

• The warm vibe, thanks to the family that runs it (sometimes even grandma mans reception)
• The excellent breakfast buffest
• The lovely restaurant at night with a chalkboard menu and local scene

The hotel options in Syracuse are limited to the very old (read: tired and musty) Hotel des Etrangers and family-run three- and four-stars that are basic but can be fine for travelers willing to rough it in exchange for the immense joy of exploring magical Ortygia (Syracuse’s historic islet) when the hordes of day trippers have left. The Gutkowski is such a place.

The renovated seaside rooms are spacious, minimalist and modern, with stone floors, large, comfortable beds and plush chairs. Bathrooms are decidedly on the small side (they may remind visitors of those on a yacht), but the showers are modern and the water pressure surprisingly great for a B&B. Gauzy white curtains line the large French windows that open onto a beautiful view of the sea.

The family who runs the Gutkowski is thoughtful with its guests, and the breakfast buffet, complete with homemade ricotta and marmalades, is one of the best in town. The hotel is in walking distance to all the restaurants and Ortygia’s car-free historic Piazza del Duomo (one of Italy’s most beautiful places). Even the Greek Theater is only about a 25-minute walk away. A word to drivers: Ortygia’s streets are notoriously narrow, even for a small car like the Fiat 550, so it’s best to park near the hotel and walk the rest of the time.

One day and night in Syracuse is enough to have a great lunch, tour the Greek Theater, stroll along the beautiful Piazza del Duomo at dusk and have a wonderful Sicilian dinner.

Couples and families who don’t need around-the-clock service and who can appreciate a minimalist but very comfortable, family-run B&B.