G&V Royal Mile Hotel

Tartan and thistles are nowhere in sight at the resolutely contemporary G&V Royal Mile Hotel, formerly known as the Missoni Hotel; while any quest for quintessential Scotland will find a more amenable accomplice in the Balmoral, the youthful property is a lovely alternative for return visits, festival-goers, fashionistas and stylish nonconformists of all persuasions.

• Luxurious Missoni bedding and bathrobes
• Nespresso machines in every room
• Unique views of Old Town's steepled skyline from top-floor windows

G&V's facade says it all. An ultramodern sandstone monolith with geometric contours, it would be conspicuous almost anywhere. But on Edinburgh's medieval monument-studded Royal Mile, the impact of the architectural fashion statement is considerably heightened. Indeed one might say that the hotel, which opened in 2009, is as irreverent as the Balmoral is nostalgic. If the hotel's valet staff weren't clad in matching kilts (featuring the Italian label’s signature zigzags), Scotland would be virtually invisible here, except from its fourth and fifth-floor windows, which overlook St. Giles' crown steeple to stunning effect.

The property is a novelty even by Milan's standards. So many Italian fashion hotels are stark, spare and serious, but monochrome was never part of Rosita Missoni's vocabulary, and her debut hotel is anything but austere. Its glossy interiors are characterized by an exuberant color scheme and an affinity for staccato patterns and tech-driven design flourishes. A pervasive sense of fun shows up in all the details, from quirky china patterns to vibrantly wallpapered elevators (going upstairs for the first time feels a bit like taking a ride in a giant kaleidoscope).

With its neon habit and its kinetic energy, the hotel does seem a bit displaced in misty, collegiate Edinburgh, and it's difficult not to wonder if the Missoni clan might have paired its inaugural property with a city that were (even vaguely) sartorially inclined. However, it's more difficult still, especially after a sleepless transatlantic flight, to argue with an invigorating rain shower, a luxurious Missoni bathrobe and a perfect cup of espresso (or three) brewed on command by one's own dedicated Nespresso machine. Aesthetic controversies aside, it is an eminently comfortable and pleasant place to be.

With 129 rooms and 7 suites, the G&V is marginally smaller than the Balmoral, but the absence of a soaring lobby and sprawling public areas makes it feel much more intimate. Facilities consist of a cheerful lobby bar, a popular Italian restaurant, a very basic fitness suite and a tiny but adorable spa with only two treatment rooms but plenty of personality.