Hotel Orfila

Hotel Orfila is an old world, intimate hotel in an upscale, but low-key neighborhood.

• The terrace by the back garden
• Intimate feel and personalized attention
• Its location on a quiet street in an elegant residential neighborhood

If you are a traveler who prefers an intimate, European-style hotel with personalized service without a trace of corporate trappings, the Orfila may be for you. Located in Madrid’s quiet, upscale Chamberí neighborhood, the 32-room Relais & Châteaux hotel is decorated in classic Baroque style, including an ornate lobby.

Rooms are each decorated individually, with antiques and prints sourced by the owner’s family. Bathrooms are not large, but feature marble and brass fixtures. The beds and linens are first-rate, as are the cozy bathrobes. While there is no fitness center and spa, Orfila does have an agreement with a hotel a 5- to 10-minute cab ride away—yet that fitness center is still limited and costs Orfila guests €20.

The hotel’s restaurant, El Jardin de Orfila by Mario Sandoval, is beloved by locals. Guests can dine inside or in the garden, which is a true gem in Madrid. Don’t leave without trying to award-winning dessert: migas de chocolate con helado de yogur y frutos rojos (chocolate crumbs with yogurt ice cream and red berries). The quiet garden is also the perfect place for an afternoon cava, while the dining room offers a lovely spread of fresh croissants, fruits and other breakfast options in the morning.

Note that the hotel closes every August for renovations and repairs.

Travelers who want intimate, distinctly old-world accommodations. Orfila isn’t recommended for families with young children.