Peninsula Bangkok

The Mandarin Oriental could not have been pleased when the thirty-nine-story Peninsula rose directly across the river in 1998, but for visitors the hotel adds a very nice high-end alternative in Bangkok—and even those who denounce the tower as an eyesore cannot deny that the views from its guest rooms are stupendous.

• Fantastic city and river views from upper floor accommodations
• Fabulous Thai restaurant Thiptara in the hotel
• Pampering spa set in a restored colonial house

Each floor has just ten spacious rooms and two suites, arranged so that they all overlook the river. Interiors are modern and comfortable and have lots of blond-wood furniture, plush carpets, couches and chairs in sunny yellows and large, contemporary bathrooms. There’s Wi-Fi throughout, and a teched-out device on the nightstand controls everything from lights to curtains. Better than TV is the river action unfolding below, especially at night, when boats outlined in small lights cruise up and down in front of the hotel and the city’s skyscrapers sparkle in the background. Rooms on the upper floors have the most expansive views. Those not suffering from vertigo may wish to book a room with a balcony. The upper-floor suites are all individually designed and include the Thai Suite, done almost entirely in teakwood, and the Terrace Suite, a sumptuous penthouse with an outdoor Jacuzzi. In addition, corner suites and rooms can be joined for two or more families traveling together. Some find the Peninsula’s sleek, polished ambience a bit corporate—and it doesn’t have the lived-in, historical feel of the Mandarin Oriental — but I truly appreciated the extra space in the room and the more tranquil common areas (since the hotel is across the river from downtown Bangkok, it doesn’t get nearly the foot traffic that properties on the other side do).

Even you don’t stay here, the excellent Thai restaurant Thiptara is worth a trip across the river, as is the tranquil spa, which opened in 2006 in a restored colonial house. The Peninsula also has a narrow three-tiered pool lined with gazebos, but its location, beside Thiptara restaurant, feels a bit more exposed than the tucked-away garden setting of the pool at the Mandarin Oriental. Shoppers will enjoy the hotel’s comprehensive shopping arcade which features luxury brands like Jim Thompson and Lotus Arts de Vivreamong others. Service at the Peninsula is flawless and unobtrusive: each room, for instance, is outfitted with a “mailbox,” a small compartment where newspapers and messages appear as if by magic, without the guest ever having to open the front door of the room (each floor also has a butler who assists with small and large requests). The Peninsula is often cited as a fabulous business hotel, but leisure travelers looking for a somewhat removed, serene base with high-end amenities should consider it.

Except for the Mandarin Oriental spa and cooking school, almost all major sights, restaurants and other attractions are located across the river. There is non-stop shuttle service from 6 a.m. until midnight, so connecting to the rest of the city isn’t a major feat, but mentally the Peninsula feels somewhat removed from the bustle of Bangkok, an advantage or a disadvantage depending on personal preference. The hotel operates a long-tail boat shuttle that stops at several piers along the river.

Visitors who crave a calm base for their visit and who are willing to forgo some charm and character for space, sleek design and impeccable service.

Travelers who want to be in the center of the city action and who plan on doing a lot of late-night reveling.