Bar Lourinhã

Tucked behind a narrow, unprepossessing storefront at the tumbleweed end of Little Collins Street, Lourinhã is chef Matt McConnell’s answer to the bar scenes of Spain and Portugal. The arty crowd packed around the communal tables and perched on bar stools eats up—literally and figuratively—the kitchen’s take on those sunny climes, like yellowtail kingfish “pancetta” (salt- and spice-cured, served finely sliced and drizzled with lemon oil) and roasted free-range chorizo. The décor doesn’t take itself too seriously; tchotchkes picked up from the chef’s travels adorn the walls, enticing passersby to come and join the fun.