Felice a Testaccio

Foodies have long argued whether the cucina romana is better at Felice or Checchino. In truth both places serve excellent traditional fare, though the dining room at Felice is slightly more updated, which is a plus for some and a major detraction for others. Come here for pasta cacio e pepe (in a simple sauce of crushed pepper, finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, and—controversially—olive oil) and abbacchio al forno (lamb baked in the oven). Ever since it was featured in The New York Times as “the best trattoria in Rome,” Felice is less of a find, but loyal visitors report that the quality of the food and atmosphere remain high. Deep in Testaccio, Felice is best-reached via taxi.