Les Deux Garçons

This veritable Aix landmark on the tree-lined Cours Mirabeau is named after the two waiters who bought it in 1840 and transformed it into the city’s first café (locals refer to it as the “2G”). It was a hotspot for intellectuals, politicians and artists of the day, including Cézanne and his friend, Emile Zola, as well as Edith Piaf, Jean Cocteau, Churchill, Sartre and Camus. It was also one of Picasso’s rare haunts during his reclusive years in Vauvenargues. The magnificent décor remains unchanged, with antique chandeliers, ceiling fans, gilded mirrors and a frieze of golden angels and classic waiters in black vests and white shirts. Try the fresh oysters and assorted shellfish platters, or the reliably good plat du jour.