Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra

At this contemporary Indian restaurant, the cutlery provides a good idea of the experience ahead: diners are presented with three forks, three knives, two spoons (one of which is wooden) and a set of silver tweezers. Indeed, the 19-course menu is decidedly complex and fantastical, though many dishes take their cue from humble street food throughout the country. Take the charcoal bhajjia, a crispy fritter of onion and sorrel dressed with a red pepper coulis, for instance: a delicious riff on a traditional Mumbai street snack using molecular gastronomy. Another highlight is the mushroom consommé, which is dressed with dried mushrooms and truffle oil crumbs. Guests, who consist of well-heeled locals and foodie travelers alike, also have the option of ordering from an à la carte menu.