Oleana

Many visitors to the Boston area think they’ll find the best food in the city center. But to eat dishes Mimi Sheraton has called inspired and the New York Times has described as deeply inventive, you’ll have to head to Cambridge. Celebrated chef Ana Sortun, a James Beard award winner, uses her Paris training to produce creative Mediterranean fare with a twist. You could make a meal of appetizers like Moroccan lamb kefta and fried halloumi cheese, but then you’d miss such delicious entrées as the striped bass with tahini sauce and the crispy duck served on toasted pita with a rich cauliflower-and-pistachio pilaf. Sortun’s husband runs an organic farm where much of Oleana’s produce is grown. Although the restaurant has gained a national (and well-deserved) reputation for its excellent food, Bostonians know it as one of the best local places to dine en plein air. The pretty patio, surrounded by lush plantings, feels more Provençal than New England, weather notwithstanding. Reservations are an absolute must here, so call ahead even if you plan to dine on an off night.