Orsa & Winston

Pioneering and beloved chef Josef Centeno, whose Bäco Mercat could be easily credited with making downtown Los Angeles a culinary destination, takes on fine dining at this omakase restaurant. Whether you opt for the five- nine- or 20-course meal, expect unusual pairings that balance elegance and audacity, with some subtle cues from Japan and Italy: eggplant and abalone with pomegranate seeds and scallions; sunchoke and salsify soup with pickled grapes; satsuki rice with uni. Relinquish control to Centeno, you won’t be disappointed.