Raya

The bad news first: during the high season, this is a total scene complete with bouncers and icy model-type hostesses. You can make a reservation to be first-row on the terrace but chances are, a long-time regular will end up getting your table. But the terrace is one of the Aeolian Island's most glorious spots for lunch and supremely romantic for dinner (the entire place is lit by oil lanterns), so if you can come during the shoulder season, this is a very special meal.