Restaurante Kokotxa

In a food-mad city, this is the under-the-radar Michelin-starred table you don’t want to miss. The name refers to a great Basque specialty, the gelatinous meat from the heads of certain fish, particularly hake and cod, that is usually cooked in green sauce or sautéed. They’re on the menu but chef Dani López also looks to Asia and Andalucia for inspiration. His eclectic contemporary Basque cooking is deeply produce centered and the menu changes often, but dishes like red tuna tartare with black garlic, mango and pickled vegetable sorbet and roast lobster in an airy foam of ajoblanco on a bed of rice noodles show off Lopez’s style.