Union

Believe us when we say so: It’s worth the trek to Old Town for this ambitious newcomer, which serves equally inventive and rustic northern Italian, California-inflected fare. Chef-owner Bruce Kalman, who seems a likely devotee of Alice Waters if the references to her on the chalkboard menu are any clue, is obsessed with seasonal and housemade (which the ricotta, pickles and pasta all are). Think warm apricots with ricotta cheese and a generous drizzle of honey, all served on a wooden slab; followed by meatballs with lardo and caper berries and standout spelt cavatelli in an argula pesto (of course the spelt flour is milled locally in Pasadena by Grist & Toll). Save room for the olive oil cake with blood orange, almonds and honeycomb gelato.