Tourists and locals alike make a pilgrimage to the one-Michelin star Elkano in Getaria—about 30 minutes from San Sebastián—for its world famous turbot, which is grilled and served simply with few ingredients. Chef Aitor Arregui inherited the restaurant (which is now No. 30 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) from his father, who first created the dish.

It’s well worth making a detour into the countryside between San Sebastián and Bilbao for the thrill of discovering chef Victor Arguinzoniz’s extraordinary avant-garde barbecuing at his restaurant, Etxebarri, in the tiny, pretty village of Axpe. Arguinzoniz is Spain’s wizard of smoke, and almost everything he prepares is grilled or griddled over a variety of charcoals he makes himself. A former dairy-company executive, he abandoned his day job to subsume himself in his passion for cooking with fire, a tradition in the Spanish Basque Country, several years ago, and Etxebarri has since become one of the hottest insider’s addresses in Spain. You’ll know why when you sample Arguinzoniz’s grilled octopus with peas and asparagus, griddled wild mushrooms and grilled squid and onions in a sauce of squid ink. His smoked-milk ice cream, the grand finale of a meal here, is one of the most original dishes in contemporary Spanish cuisine.

Chef Iñigo Peña’s relaxed restaurant with a soothing almost Scandinavian décor of blonde wood and cement floors in the Hotel Niza is one of the hottest tickets in town. Why? Peña, who previously cooked at Arzak and Mugaritz, dazzles with dishes that are technically impeccable and boldly simple. The chef’s respect for his carefully sourced seasonal produce comes across in dishes like mushroom stuffed ravioli, hake in a green herb sauce with baby clams, and Iberian pork with grapes and apples. Don’t miss the delicate made-to-order apple tart for dessert.

Restaurant Narru is a one-Michelin-starred restaurant across the street from San Sebastian’s Buen Pastor Cathedral. One of the city’s best (and largest) restaurants, Narru has a relaxed but refined vibe and a small selection of outdoor seating. The focus is on high quality ingredients and an elevated presentation of regional specialties. Do not miss the pan con tomate; it is an ideal umami bite. Reservations are a must.