Hill/Tea Country

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At a Glance

This collection of four villa hotels, hailing from British times and situated high up in the Tea Country, is run a bit like a wilderness safari lodge with lots of downtime, eating, mingling with other guests and excursions in this stunning area.

Indagare Loves

• Waking to mind-blowing vistas of the surrounding tea region, unfolding in a seemingly endless array of greens
• The excellent food—Tea Trails belongs to the Relais & Châteaux portfolio
• Meeting other guests over afternoon high tea or pre-dinner drinks in the congenial sitting room

Review

Arriving at one of the incredible Tea Trail bungalows is part of the adventure: your driver takes you through impossibly narrow roads, winding higher and higher through greener and greener tea crops, passing local pickers dressed in colorful saris. The entire time you are bouncing around on the back seat, you can’t help but wonder at the British, on horseback and in carriages, who pegged this wild tropical jungle, with its steep, unforgiving terrain, as the place for starting a tea planation.

But select it they did, in the 1840s, starting what remains as one of Sri Lanka’s biggest industries. And with the plantations came estate managers (and their wives and entourage), so planters’ bungalows sprung up around Hill Country. The five restored ones that belong to Tea Trails hail from this colonial era, having been meticulously restored and updated by the owners, the Fernando family of the Sri Lankan Dilmah tea empire (Cape Weligama is the sister property).

Each of the stylish boutique villas (“bungalow” is an understatement) has between four and six bedrooms, as well as sumptuous sitting and dining rooms, a games room (billiards, of course) and beautifully planted gardens. The vibe is that of a home stay and keys to rooms are only procured upon request. Though belonging to the same hotel group, the bungalows are located sizeable distances apart (30-45 minutes by car), so guests will stay put at one of them for the entirety of their stay. Choosing which one is not easy, as all have unique characteristics and will appeal to different types of travelers (contact Indagare’s Bookings Team for help selecting the one that’s right for you).

Norwood is exquisite from the moment guests drive past two enormous stands of bamboo that shelter the elegant driveway. High on top of a hillside, this bungalow has extraordinary 360-degree views of the eastern end of the Bogawantalawa Valley and feels the most open. A large swimming pool and sun deck makes a stay here particularly relaxing, and the larger grounds make it the best fit for families traveling with younger children. Over in another valley, Tientsin is located at an elevation of 4,600 feet and is a garden lover’s dream, with expansive green lawns and colorful flower beds. Lunch and tea here are served on a covered porch with a view towards the mountains.

Castlereagh, the original Tea Trails bungalow that opened in 2005, has the most colonial vibe, with pretty gardens and a slightly smaller sitting and dining room. At a lower altitude, it overlooks Castleragh Reservoir, which is also where seaplanes land for visitors not wishing to make the adventurous drive here. Just up the road from Castleragh lies Dunkled, the newest Tea Trails addition that opened in early 2016. The outside terrace and patio here has incredible views, and a single cottage is a fabulous choice for travelers requiring more space. Interiors are stylish and brand-new, with beautiful printed fabrics and polished floors, the large infinity pool and Jacuzzi have sweeping reservoir views. (With four rooms, the smallest of the villas, Somerville, is currently closed for renovations.)

Much like at a safari or wilderness lodge, days at Tea Trails are arranged around meals. After breakfast, the chef will run lunch and dinner plans by you, and there are juices and snacks available throughout the day. Morning “bed tea” kicks off your day (very Downton Abbey) and High Tea, complete with clotted cream and scones highlights the afternoon. To offset all the eating (which is excellent and can be fully customized to preference), many guests choose to hike or bike in the area, though bikers need to be hearty: the terrain here is steep. Each bungalow has a couple of well-marked shorter hikes in its vicinity and those wishing for a more challenging trek can hike from one bungalow to another for lunch. Another must is the Tea Experience, where guests learn about the local tea production from the master blenders and makers working here.

It’s good to know ahead of time that are some downsides to staying at such an intimate and historic property. Doors and walls are not as sound-proof as one would like, which is not ideal when you have a mix of guests with varying degrees of jetlag from around the world (though in most cases, this villa hotel draws a rather subdued, older clientele). Even though each bungalow is generously sized, when it rains, guests retreat to the same three or four common areas, so if someone wants to watch a soccer game on TV, it’s difficult to escape. And just like at any other lodge in the world, pre-dinner cocktails entail some mingling.

That said, for most travelers, Tea Trails will be a must-do on their itinerary—it’s simply one of the most authentic and memorable hotel stays the country. Much like at Cape Weligama, what elevates it is the incredible team of butlers who not only speak excellent English but who look after their guests with a lot of care, humor and thought. Many have been with Tea Trails for years (always a good sign) and are eager to have guests appreciate the special beauty of this region.

Who Should Stay

Anyone looking for an intimate setting, Tea Trails is a truly authentic, lovely experience that should not be missed. The high elevation makes for a welcome drop in temperatures, and at the mid-point of a busy itinerary, the relaxed vibe, the complimentary laundry service and the soothing green vistas of Tea Country are appreciated.

Ideal Length of Stay

Two nights is the very minimum (due to the bumpy drive it takes to get here); three is just right; four will add a serious element of relaxation to your Sri Lanka itinerary, so is a good fit for travelers who are not starting or ending at the beach.

Getting There

Travelers who wish to skip the arduous roads leading to Tea Trails can arrive via seaplane or helicopter, from Kandy, Colombo and Galle (with flying times of 15, 20 and 30 minutes respectively).

Author

• Simone Girner