In The Great Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald writes that “life starts all over again when it gets crisp in the fall”—and that is certainly true in New York City, when the sweat and stupor of summer temperatures are shaken off and a vibrant burst of energy crackles in the air, with every cool breeze off the Hudson and Central Park leaf turned orange. Designers and editors step out in their autumnal best for Fashion Week—and this year, Vogue‘s 130th anniversary show Vogue World brought new meaning to the term “Streetwear” (making Meatpacking cool again, for a moment). From the Upper East Side to the West Village, emerging trends and ideas can be caught between laments of skyscraper-high rents and the clinking of martini glasses, at the bars of glamorous hotels, both iconic and novel. Over brunches and subway run-ins, reviews of the best new restaurants and shows of the season are swapped like baseball cards (and fans should not miss the opening of the Jackie Robinson Museum, detailed below). The best time to be in New York City is now—and whether you’re a local, a long weekender or a visitor from overseas, these are the addresses and happenings to have on your radar.
Editor’s Note: Due to the sheer volume of openings, we’ve primarily focused this report on Manhattan.
Contact your Trip Designer or Indagare, if you are not yet a member, to start planning a trip to New York City. Our team can match you with the accommodations, reservations and activities that are right for you.
Where to Rest & Revive: New Hotels
The arrival of the first Aman retreat in New York—and the first property from the brand ever on the East Coast—in August represents the most-discussed addition to the city’s hotel offerings (read our First Look here). The design-forward wellness haven is located within the Crown Building, a Gilded Age jewel on Fifth Avenue overlooking Central Park that was the original home of MoMA. The property has been transformed by Jean-Michel Gathy to restore the original architecture while fusing the sleek and serene minimalism of the Aman brand with the glitz of the location. The three-story, over 7,500-square-foot indoor-outdoor spa is the reason to come here (the pièce de résistance: a dramatic indoor swimming pool circled by firepits and daybeds), but guests are sure to linger at the underground jazz bar, wraparound garden terrace, Japanese and Italian restaurants and wine library (nor will the 83 rooms and suites disappoint—with the entry-level category starting at $3,200 per night).
Also generating major buzz is the new Ritz-Carlton in NoMad, which launched a staged opening in July; when fully up-and-running, the hotel will offer 250 rooms, including 31 suites, with entry-level rates currently hovering around $1,300. The property is located on Broadway in a shiny high-rise designed by architect Rafael Viñoly—and softened with plenty of outdoor terraces, greenery and works by local artists. Foodies will rejoice at the dining program, which is anchored by new outposts of José Andrés’s acclaimed D.C. restaurant Zaytinya (serving Greek, Levantine and Turkish food, with 140 seats—ideal for business lunches and celebrations) and Miami mainstay The Bazaar (a high-end, sensory experience opening later this year), along with the rooftop cocktail bar Nubeluz, a glowing, jewel-toned space designed by Martin Brudnizki, serving sweeping views from 500 feet up, along with tapas and build-your-own tablas (charcuterie boards). An added bonus? Bathroom amenities by Diptyque and a 6,800-square-foot spa and fitness center. Indagare Tip: The hotel is located in the city’s Flower District, so wake up early for a neighborhood stroll to catch the delivery of the day’s bouquets—and return in time for happy hour at five o’clock, when the Ritz’s “Flower Cart” circulates with complimentary floral-themed cocktails!
From Battery Park to Billionaires’ Row, other openings are serving up enough style and scene to shake up the established set. At 36 Central Park South, the Park Lane Hotel has been conjured up by acclaimed firm Yabu Pushelberg to bring some Alice in Wonderland–like whimsy to its storied corner, along with murals by En Viu, 611 rooms and elevated dining and beverage concepts by insider Scott Sartiano (including a one-of-a-kind rooftop lounge with spectacular park views—and all within walking distance of the top uptown venues for shopping and culture). Just as singular is Casa Cipriani, designed by Thierry Despont and housed in the Beaux-Arts Battery Maritime Building—alongside a fashionable members’ club (to which guests have access). The property is intimate, with just 47 polished, nautical rooms—the best of which have terraces with views of the Statue of Liberty and Brooklyn Bridge; amenities include see-and-be-seen Cipriani dining venues and a modern spa and wellness center.
The Ned—the snappy London-based sister to the Soho House brand—has launched its second hotel and members’ club, along with a restaurant and bar that are open to the public, in the former NoMad Hotel (devotees of the original will be pleased that the space has not been much changed). In ever-trendy Tribeca, another chic European (French) brand—Barrière, behind the respected properties in Paris, Cannes and St. Barth’s—has added a dash of l’art de vivre to the city grind, with the opening of Hôtel Barrière Fouquet’s New York at 456 Greenwich Street. Highlights include a rooftop garden terrace, private cinema, spa, French vegan café and a traditional brasserie, with 97 rooms and suites and interiors, also by Martin Brudnizki, centered on a vibrant color palette of French blue, canary yellow, Millennial pink, pistachio, mauve and coral. The delightfully feminine accents make this property a must-book for a girls’ getaway.
In the Financial District, The Wall Street Hotel opened on June 1 with the goal of unifying this reemerging neighborhood around a central hub of hospitality. Located in the landmark Tontine building—whose origins date back to the late 1700s upon the founding of the New York Stock Exchange, when it was a combined coffeehouse, tavern and trading center—The Wall Street Hotel is managed by the Paspaley Group, an Australian family-owned company known for pioneering the Australian pearling industry. Both the neighborhood’s and the family’s connections to trade at sea are felt in the hotel’s gently nautical theme, which features a soft blue palette and, yes, pearl accents throughout the 180 rooms and suites. Guests will delight in the main restaurant, a French brasserie—La Marchande (meaning “female merchant”)—by the Michelin-grade chef John Fraser. Oysters are practically obligatory, and the mixology program centers around vermouth.
The post-pandemic return to New York’s oldest neighborhoods continues with the Nine Orchard hotel, just a mile north of The Wall Street Hotel, on the Lower East Side. Housed in the former Jarmulowsky bank building, which was built in 1912 and has been painstakingly restored, the hotel is bringing the landmark back to life, preserving original details like the facade and metalwork, in a true celebration of Lower East Side heritage and history. The 116 guestrooms are cozy (in proper LES fashion) but airy, peaceful and elegant—with charming, handcrafted details and bright views that would be the envy of most apartment dwellers. (There are also three larger suites offering private brick terraces.) The pied-à-terre vibe makes Nine Orchard just as appealing to a local for a staycation as to a visitor seeking the “next cool spot.” And Nine Orchard is the next cool spot, indeed, in large part thanks to the food and beverage program from Chef Ignacio Mattos’ Mattos Hospitality (behind Estela, Lodi and Altro Paradiso). The Corner Bar restaurant—offering breakfast, brunch and dinner—is inspired by the great bistros and taverns of the world. The menu highlights upscale comfort food (oysters and mussels, Spaghetti Pomodoro, roasted chicken, Caesar salad, steak au poivre—and, of course, a signature burger); it’s already difficult to secure a reservation. But the true gem is the Lobby Lounge, which quickly shot to the top of my shortlist of answers to that impossible question, “Where should we get a drink?” The 52-seat cocktail bar is located in what is perhaps the Jarmulowsky building’s most special space—the former teller room, which features soaring windows and vaulted ceilings decorated with ornate Greek Revival molding—made warm by earthy, botanical prints, clusters of Deco lights and rich textures. A fine-dining restaurant, Amado Grill, is also scheduled to open this fall.
For the literary set, The Algonquin (the infamous Midtown stomping grounds of Fitzgerald, Parker, Woollcott and company) has just unveiled a multimillion-dollar renovation of its public spaces, including the legendary Blue Bar and Oak Room—though I’d wager no number of renovations can erase the secrets from those walls; in addition to hosting Champagne-soaked weekends for the luminaries of the ’20s, The Algonquin was the site where My Fair Lady was composed, where Harry Connick, Jr. got his start, where The New Yorker was founded, and where the 10,000-dollar, diamond-garnished “Martini on the Rock” was invented.
Another historic property with a new lease on life—after a long renovation—is the Hotel Chelsea, located in a landmark building dating back to 1884. Its reputation as a haven for eccentrics and artists (former patrons include Bob Dylan, Patti Smith, Janis Joplin, Jack Kerouac and Andy Warhol) remains a focus, as does the iconic neon-red sign—and it fits well within the portfolio of its owners Sean MacPherson, Ira Drukier and Richard Born, who are behind the dark-sexy Bowery Hotel and The Jane. The reopening of the hotel also marks the revival of the 1930s Spanish restaurant El Quijote. A second, French restaurant and a rooftop spa and fitness center will be added later in the fall.
And for openings on the horizon—one of the properties I’m most eagerly awaiting is a fresh debut from Flâneur Hospitality; it’s a brand-new concept from real estate entrepreneur Alex Ohebshalom, expected to open later this year. Within a historic building that was once the Second National Bank (as well as a former home of Gilded Age socialite Charlotte Goodridge)—and with an expansion into a new 24-story glass tower—the Fifth Avenue Hotel will champion color, panache and texture, masterminded by Martin Brudnizki. Lovers of bold patterns, bright wallpapers, funky fixtures and objets d’art will be quite at home in any of the 153 rooms; standout accents include a mother-of-pearl-inlaid bar cart with reptilian handles, a fruit-filled blown-glass chandelier and lamps in every form—from Chinese pagodas to Fabergé eggs. There will also be a main restaurant by Andrew Carmellini (the cool-spot king behind Locanda Verde, The Dutch, Carne Mare, Lafayette, Bar Primi and more)—alongside The Portrait Bar, The Study and The Conservatory for libations (and perhaps a game of Clue).
The lofty perch above the High Line in the XI Towers by Bjarke Ingels that was expected to become the Six Senses New York is no longer in the offing—but development of the space is reported to have been taken over by Faena, a luxury brand with properties in Buenos Aires and Miami (where its candy-red-and-white umbrellas have become Instagram-famous). And finally, on Warren Street, the final beams have been placed for a new outpost of the Firmdale Hotels brand—the name behind Indagare-adored Manhattan mainstays The Crosby and The Whitby—from designer Kit Kemp and her husband and business partner Tim. If all goes according to plan, the property should open its doors around this time next year.
Where to Taste & Imbibe: Restaurant Scene
While staffing remains an issue, prices are on the rise and top reservations are becoming increasingly hard to come by, New York’s restaurant scene is decidedly back—with a vengeance. A new wave of contemporary fine-dining restaurants are recharging the phrase “big night out,” while a host of European-focused establishments are putting a twist on society’s favorite haunts: the tavern, the wine bar, the bistro, the clubhouse. A few exciting Thai, Japanese, Indian and Afro-Caribbean additions round out the scene. Check out our shortlist—just in time for the awarding of new Michelin stars on October 6.
New York’s biggest culinary names have been staking new claims all over town—starting with Jean Georges, whose foothold in the Seaport expanded in September with opening of the Tin Building. The sprawling 53,000-square-foot marketplace (à la Eataly or Mercado Little Spain), within the eponymous historic landmark, has been redesigned by Roman and Williams; Tin Building offers grocery markets and shops, six restaurants (including the vegetarian Seeds & Weeds, Mexican Taquito, Chinese House of the Red Pearl and French T. Brasserie), four bars, six to-go counters and private dining offerings for a 360-degree, immersive experience.
James Beard Award-winning celebri-chef Kwame Onwuachi (author of My America: Recipes from a Young Black Chef and Esquire‘s 2019 Chef of the Year) is opening a new restaurant, Tatiana, in Lincoln Center later this fall. Onwuachi describes the concept on his Instagram as such: “This will be my love letter to NYC with an Afro Caribbean touch.”
Daniel Boulud has also been busy. On the heels of One Vanderbilt stunner Le Pavillon, the chef-restaurateur has opened a bistro on the ground floor of The Beekman Hotel in FiDi (in the space formerly occupied by Keith McNally’s Augustine). The cozy, classic Le Gratin pays homage to the traditional restaurants of Boulud’s hometown of Lyon, with a relaxed but stylish atmosphere (that attracts well-heeled visitors and celebrities; even with a reservation, be prepared to wait for a table). The edited menu features classics like a gem lettuce salad with haricots verte, escargots and steak tartare, pan-seared Dover sole, rôtisserie chicken, steak-frites and glazed duck breast—and, of course, potato gratin. And on the opposite side of the flavor profile, Boulud has teamed up with sushi master chef George Ruan to open an underground, 18-seat omakase restaurant, Jōji, located in Grand Central, below One Vanderbilt.
Major Food Group (Carbone, Sadelle’s, Dirty French) is expected to revive its Nolita-based Italian deli-restaurant Torrisi by the end of this year—along with a New York outpost of its invitation-only members club ZZ’s (which will include a private Carbone restaurant), located in Hudson Yards.
Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya of Unapologetic Foods (behind Indian headliners Dhamaka, Semma, and Adda) are exploring the Calcutta of Mazumdar’s immigrant father—in Park Slope, Brooklyn—with Masalawala & Sons, which opened earlier this fall (and is a reincarnation of a Lower East Side restaurant by the same name, originally run by Mazumdar’s father). Next year, the group is also expected to open a kebab restaurant, Kebabwala, in the East Village.
Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group is finally restoring two beloved pandemic casualties: Manhatta—one of the newest additions to the portfolio (and one of the earlier restaurants to put FiDi back on the map), which originally opened in 2018 and was immediately celebrated for its international plates and cocktails, and truly breathtaking views from sixty stories up—and Maialino, a mouthwatering take on the Italian trattoria. Reservations will open soon for the new location at the Redbury Hotel, just a few blocks from the original in the Gramercy Park Hotel (whose liquidation sale took place this week).
Other pandemic losses included many of Midtown’s power lunch mainstays, but earlier this year, the famous Lambs Club was reopened in its same location off Times Square, with the same Mad Men vibe and signature glossy red interiors by Thierry Despont—but with a new dining concept spearheaded by Grand Tour Hospitality (the team behind the West Village’s American Bar and Saint Theo’s) and the award-winning chef Michael White, formerly of Marea. The menu highlights American classics with international influence, with standouts like the heirloom asparagus with morels and hollandaise and the Stanford White Burger with raclette, pickled red onion, and Dijonaise.
From Chef Ryan Hardy (Charlie Bird, Legacy Records, Ada’s Place), a new West Village sister restaurant to pizza icon Pasquale Jones, Bar Pasquale, recently opened. The new restaurant and bar (which is right next door to the original) has the comfortable feeling of being in a cool friend’s apartment, thanks to the eclectic rugs scattered on the floors, the thoughtfully arranged bookcases and the snug tables and booths. The menu celebrates Sicilian cuisine—and it’s one of those places where choosing what to order is a struggle. We sampled the crocce (arancini-like potato and fennel fritters with a strong aroma of orange), carciofi fritti, grilled octopus (with an array of pepper sauces), Sicilian pork ragu casarecce and spaghetti affumicato (a pasta smoked with sea urchin and clams)—and everything was truly delicious. Next time, we’ll be back for the pizza (and more of the orange wines).
In the former Del Posto space, the restaurateurs behind Crown Shy, Saga and Overstory have opened Al Coro, a fine-dining Italian eatery that aims to pair excellent food with a glamorous party vibe. There is live music every evening, moody lighting and private rooms designed for special occasions; the seven-course menu starts at $245 (with a five-course version on offer as well), and the dishes rotate every six weeks. Next door, a more casual sister restaurant Mel’s has also opened, with a focus on wood-fired pizza and small plates. A third venue, also on location, is in the works.
Continuing the wave of high-end arrivals to Rockefeller Center, Le Rock recently opened from the team behind Frenchette (and, formerly, Balthazar). Like Frenchette, Le Rock presents a contemporary, buzzy take on the French brasserie, with Art Deco décor worthy of its address—and it’s already a must-get reservation.
The latest creation from celebri-chef Marc Forgione—in collaboration with his legendary father, Larry Forgione—is One Fifth, an establishment overlooking Washington Square Park that describes itself as “grounded in a classic New York sensibility, with an Italian accent.” Expect a seasonal focus (the Union Square Greenmarket is just next door) and a lively bar scene.
Marcus Samuelsson will soon be opening a new 125-seat restaurant—Hav & Mar, in Chelsea—which will mark his first major New York project since Harlem icon Red Rooster in over half a decade. The concept, curated in partnership with Executive Chef Rose Noël, will focus on celebrating Samuelsson’s Ethiopian and Swedish heritage, alongside inspiration from his world travels, with small plates and family-style courses. The restaurant has commissioned original artwork by acclaimed artist Derrick Adams, building upon the world-class Black Art programs founded by the Red Rooster restaurants.
And for a few smaller, quirkier spots we love that fall just outside of the big-restaurateur-circuit, check out these newcomers:
- Le Dive, a delightful spot for drinks and indulgent small plates that evokes French café culture and is stylish with a little edge—just like its Lower East Side location.
- Bongos, an equally tiny spot just three blocks north whose odd name can be forgiven for its serious menu (striped bass crudo with hibiscus and rhubarb; gulf prawns with cayenne and worcestershire sauce; gem lettuce and herb salad with anchovies; and a grass-fed, bone-in ribeye) and house-party mood (it’s open until midnight Sunday through Wednesday and 2:00 a.m. Thursday through Saturday).
- Mr. Capri, a breath of fresh sea air in the West Village, with a sophisticated southern-coastal Italian menu.
- Ernesto’s, a contemporary update on the classic Basque tavern (come here for your pintxos fix—and a robust Spanish wine list; sadly, New York’s open container law is still in effect, keeping guests from partaking in the traditions of a true pintxos experience).
- Claud, a sleek European restaurant and wine bar, also in the East Village.
- Ye’s Apothecary, a sexy hideaway on Orchard Street serving “Szechuan tapas” and herbal-infused cocktails, which has nothing to do with Kanye West.
- K’Far, an Israeli all-day café from the team behind Brooklyn hotspot Laser Wolf.
- Kru, a Thai restaurant focused on historic recipes in Williamsburg, from chef Ohm Suansilphong (of Fish Cheeks).
- Carriage House, coming soon to West Tenth, from the owner of village hotspot Employees Only.
Plus, don’t miss: Urban Hawker, a Singaporean street food hall curated by KF Seetoh (and first born out of a creative partnership with Anthony Bourdain) to evoke the traditional hawker centers, just opened in Midtown. City Winery is coming to Grand Central’s Vanderbilt Hall. Rockefeller Center is set to unveil the farm-to-table Five Acres (from Greg Baxtrom of Olmsted in Brooklyn) and Italian Jupiter later this year, as part of the tourist site’s culinary revival (previous openings we have covered and continue to enjoy include Lodi, Pebble Bar and The Other Half Brewery).
Where to Wander & Wonder: Culture & More
The city’s culture centers are finally back in full swing, and there’s no shortage of entertainments to discover in the worlds of art, design, music, dance, theater and beyond. Discover the highlights below.
The Jean Michel Basquiat: King Pleasure exhibition on at the Starrett Lehigh Building in Chelsea has been extended by popular demand through October 31. Among the many Basquiat shows that pass through the city, this one is unique because it has been curated by the artist’s sisters with the aim of providing a true window into his life and creative world. The exhibition shares the Basquiat estate’s own collection for the first time, with over 200 works and artifacts, including 177 that have never been exhibited.
At the Flatiron outpost of the international Fotografiska photography museum, David LaChapelle: Make Believe (through January 8, 2023) presents the gallery’s first full-building takeover—and the artist’s first solo exhibition at a major museum in North America. The show features over 150 works, including some that are being presented for the very first time. Another international gallery, the French Hall des Lumières, just opened in New York on September 14, with the inaugural exhibition, Gustav Klimt: Gold in Motion, projecting the Austrian painter’s famous glittering images on a massive, digitized scale. In Brooklyn, a similarly immersive, digitally-driven gallery—Arts District—has just opened in a 25,000 square-foot warehouse in Greenpoint, with the show Limitless AI by artists Ferdi and Eylul Alici likely to appeal to fans of the Chelsea experience ARTECHOUSE.
The sixth floor of the Whitney Biennial is still on view until October 16 for a review of the most significant contemporary American artists of the moment. At the Brooklyn Museum, the career of the late Virgil Abloh will be celebrated holistically, from Louis Vuitton to Off-White, with Figures of Speech (through January 29, 2023). Another major fashion retrospective, Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, opens November 18, with nearly 130 outfits alongside sketches, photography and immersive installations. (Indagare Tip: Guests who purchase tickets for both will receive a discount.)
At the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a few exciting exhibitions will round out the calendar. The ongoing Before Yesterday We Could Fly: An Afrofuturist Period Room will bring aptly deconstructed perspectives—as will Cubism and the Trompe l’Oeil Tradition, on from October 20 to January 22, 2o23. At the New York Public Library, Treasures: The Polonsky Exhibition is a must-see for those who have not yet; the exhibition (which is the library’s first permanent installation) showcases some of the most fascinating items from its collection, spanning 4,000 years (including a ballet slipper designed by Coco Chanel, A.A. Milne’s original Winnie the Pooh toys that inspired the stories, Thomas Jefferson’s copy of the Declaration of Independence, and a fantastic selection of first editions and manuscripts).
The New York culture scene’s greatest asset is its diversity of voices, and especially with the news of late, the Ukrainian Museum in the East Village warrants a revisit. On Centre Street, the Museum of Chinese in America has recently unveiled plans for a major renovation and expansion, with a new design by Maya Lin that will expand the collection from 12,000 square-feet to just under 70,000 square-feet. In the spring of 2023, New York University will open a new theater on the foundations of the African Grove Theatre, the first Black theater in the country; the new project, which is part of the Tisch School of the Arts’ acclaimed graduate program, will function as a living memorial as well as a place of study. And finally, the Jackie Robinson Museum opened on September 5 on Varick. Over a decade in the making, the collection will celebrate the astounding life and impact of this baseball player and civil rights activist, through immersive installations, memorabilia and testimonials.
In the latest edition of Indagare Magazine, arriving to members’ mailboxes in November, contributor Mario Mercado reports on Broadway’s latest, but here are two fun arrivals to have on your radar. & Juliet, a retelling of the Shakespeare tragedy, in which Juliet survives her lover, is sure to be a smash hit, thanks to a script by David West Read (who wrote and produced Schitt’s Creek) and music by Swedish pop magician Max Martin (previews begin October 28). Ain’t No Mo’, an identity-probing, biting comedy that premiered at The Public Theater in 2019 and asks the question, “What would happen if the U.S. government offered Black Americans one-way plane tickets to Africa?” begins previews on November 3. When the show opens, its writer, Jordan E. Cooper, will become the youngest Broadway playwright of all time (at 27). Plus: Don’t miss the show-stopping debut of the Museum of Broadway in November.
The Central Park Conservancy has finally resumed in-person tours, while live performances have returned to the Metropolitan Opera, and the New York City Ballet is back at Lincoln Center. The New York Philharmonic will move into its new state-of-the-art home at the renovated David Geffen Hall at Lincoln Center, two years ahead of schedule, next month, with upgrades including a Grand Promenade on Broadway for public performances, and an in-the-works “patrons lounge”—while the grand opening of the Ronald O. Perelman Performing Arts Center in 2023 at the World Trade Center will create a new platform for both emerging and well-known artists in theater, dance, music, opera and film.
Contact your Trip Designer or Indagare, if you are not yet a member, to start planning a trip to New York City. Our team can match you with the accommodations, reservations and activities that are right for you.