Hacienda San José

Set on 74 acres in the heart of the Yucatán jungle, Hacienda San José is a Mexican hideaway for those interested in exploring a Mexico that has been largely forgotten by travelers.

Arriving at Hacienda San José, part of Marriott's Luxury Collection, deep in the Yucatán jungle, is like stepping into a Gabriel Garcia Marquez novel. From the once grand, now crumbling limestone gates to the overgrown gardens, the property abounds with beauty and decay, history and haunting images. Gravel pathways connect the various buildings, which once made up a sugar estate and have since been restored and painted in vivid blues, yellows and reds.

At the turn of the 19th century, the region where the hotel is situated boasted more than 1,100 haciendas, most of which produced sisal (a plant used for rope and weaving), or “green gold,” for the fortunes it brought to its plantation owners. French and Italian architects built magnificent estates, which included schools, shops, staff quarters and churches. Once nylon was invented and demand for sisal dropped, many of the haciendas became embroiled in land disputes and were eventually taken over by the government.

Thanks to a Mexican couple that decided to preserve historic haciendas, San José, located on 74 acres in the heart of the jungle, was transformed into a 15-room hotel in 1999. Guests may sleep in the former stables, workshops or small casitas. The most palatial room belonged to the patron of the hacienda and features a sitting room, broad verandah and its own swimming pool. Though the rooms have been outfitted with modern amenities such as air conditioning and telephones, the emphasis is more on historic preservation than luxury. Tile floors, carved wooden beds, heavy shutters and wooden armoires don’t just evoke olden days, they make the rooms feel truly old-fashioned. For travelers in search of authentic historic charm, the discomfort of slightly dark rooms and the occasional large spider in the bathroom is more than made up for by the privilege of feeling a part of an earlier time. “Too many places have been brought up to such an international standard of comfort that they have lost all sense of uniqueness,” argued one visitor.

The concierge can arrange horseback riding, biking and excursions with guides to visit local sites such as Chichen Itza, the yellow city of Izamal and Mérida.

Note: The rooms were built with thick walls and small windows to keep out the heat. They have since been outfitted with ceiling fans and air conditioning but they remain very dark.

Those who want to hide out in the jungle and get a taste of colonial Mexico far from the madding crowds of Cancun.