Heritance Kandalama

Literally carved into a rock-face overlooking Kanalama Lake towards Sigiriya Rock Fortress, the Kandalama was designed by Geoffrey Bawa, Sri Lanka's version of Frank Lloyd Wright.

The setting of the Heritance Kandalama is striking: carved into a rock-face perched high above Kandalama Lake, the hotel folds seamlessly into its natural setting, which is a feat of architectural master-minding, considering it is seven stories tall and one kilometer (0.6 miles) long. Its multiple terraces as well as many of the guest rooms also have spot-on views of Sigiriya Rock in the distance, and its lush, grown-in setting draws an army of monkeys to the delight of any children staying there. Famed architect Bawa conceived the hotel to resemble a bird in flight from above, so two slender wings fan out from the central, seven-story hub, which houses several restaurants, bars and pool areas, as well as a wonderful Six Senses spa that sits at the very top of the building with expansive views.

If Kandalama were a small-to-mid-sized hotel, it would be pure heaven. However, with 152 rooms, three restaurants (including a massive buffet), three pools and several lounges and bars, it is the preferred choice for larger groups traveling together, so the overall experience feels a bit packaged. The guest rooms are comfortable enough, with king-size beds, small balconies and local snacks (paprika-spiced cashews). But bathrooms could use an update and due to the lengthy layout with rooms spread across five floors and with eight room categories, figuring out what room to request can be tricky. Some categories have also been renovated more recently.

The property's commitment to sustainability, conservation and community-building is remarkable: it has set aside some 98 acres as undeveloped forest (allowing for exquisite bird life); it has its own vegetables and herb gardens; and some 60 percent of the lovely staff are from local villages. In some ways, it is nice that this iconic Sri Lankan property in this spectacular location is accessible to a larger audience—everyone is rapt when the sun sets across the lake, painting the sky pink and purple—but after coming from such boutique gems as Kandy House or Tea Trails, the size of Heritance Kandalama can be a little jarring.

From Anuradhapura, Heritance Kandalama is a 1.5-hour drive. From Kandy, the resort can be reached in two hours. It's a good base for touring the Dambulla Cave Temples (20 minutes away). Sigiriya, meanwhile, is a 40-minute drive.