Eleven Rio Palena Lodge

What once was a humble fly-fishing lodge has been transformed by adventure-lodging powerhouse Eleven into one of the most special lodges in Chile. With a remote location on the banks of the Palena River in Chile’s mostly unexplored Northern Patagonia region, the lodge offers unparalleled solitude and access to all the area has to offer. While there is a plethora of outdoor activities to choose from, one mainstay on almost all guests’ itineraries are heli-assisted activities. In the summer, this can involve flying to hard-to-reach glaciers and glacial lakes for hiking, fishing and stand-up paddle boarding. During heli-ski season, catching powder on secluded slopes is often the focus of the stay. And after an exciting day spent in the great outdoors, guests return to this intimate, seven-bedroom lodge where there are plenty of spots to cozy up with a book or a cocktail before a contemporary Chilean meal made with locally sourced ingredients.

The Standout: The wood-fired sauna and two cedar wood-fired hot tubs overlooking the river—perfect for a soak after an active day in the Andes

Don’t Miss: A day spent exploring with the lodge’s helicopter

• The remote location that allows the guide team to access hard-to-reach areas—a stark contrast from the crowds that are ever-present in Torres del Paine
• The asado dinner night, where the lodge invites both guests and staff to gather for an evening of local specialties, shared conversation and perhaps even some dancing
• The mostly Chilean staff that seem more like a family than a group of employees, with interesting backgrounds and a strong passion for sharing their little slice of heaven with the guests

“Don’t follow me - take that route on the right” says our guide as we are finishing our rock scramble up to the top of Lago Catedral, a mountaintop glacial lake only accessible by helicopter that was both discovered and named by the Rio Palena guiding team. As I do, he looks back on me and smiles. “I can assure you that you are the first person to have ever stepped in that spot.”

Many people think of Chilean Patagonia as Torres del Paine National Park—and rightfully so. The park has the iconic Paine Massif mountain range, guanacos and pumas and some of the best lodges in the country…but it also has hundreds of thousands of annual visitors. For those that want to escape the crowds, there is no better place than Eleven’s Rio Palena Lodge in northern Patagonia—which happens to make a great complement to southern Patagonia. What began as a humble fly-fishing lodge for only the most die-hard anglers has been transformed through Eleven’s management (also behind Deplar Farm and Taylor River Lodge, among others) into a world-class seven-bedroom adventure lodge set along the banks of the Palena River.

The lodge is an adventurer’s haven. Upon arrival, guests meet with their dedicated guide to discuss their interests and activity level, and from there, the guide sketches out a tailored plan of activities. From hiking to remote waterfalls and fly fishing (using difference locations for each experience level) to kayaking the Rio Palena and whitewater rafting down the world-famous Futaleufú, most guests will leave each day with a sense of accomplishment and maybe some sore muscles.

One of the most special things about the Rio Palena experience is that coming home is just as special as leaving for the day. Upon return, the incredible local staff is sure to have the wood-fired hot tubs and wood-fired sauna ready. There are also many cozy nooks for settling in for some reading or a well-crafted cocktail before dinner—a communal event at the lodge, where dishes include locally sourced ingredients and are crafted through authentic but contemporary cooking techniques.

Rio Palena lodge has kept its cozy lodge-style bones while bringing every aspect of its design to a high level. The rooms, while small with mostly queen beds, are well appointed. For those that want a bit more space (and a king bed), we suggest either the Azul suite on the first floor, complete with a small terrace and personal steam shower, or the Palena suite on the second floor, the only suite with a separate living room and balcony overlooking the grounds. The design is comfortable and natural, with wood dominating the walls and ceilings with pops of color in the furniture inspired by the surroundings.

Outside the bedrooms is a large living room, a dining room with one large table for meals and a bar area sure to be lively at night as guests recount their adventures. There is spacious shared terrace ideal for relaxing and stargazing on a clear night, as well as a “spa” area, comprised of two hot tubs, a sauna and a spa tent that can be booked for appointments in advance. Further across the lawn and past the beginner’s fishing hole is the outdoor asado area, a highlight dinner that almost all guests will get to experience at least once. Finally, one of the most important rooms is the downstairs “locker room;” each guest is assigned to a closet filled the necessary equipment including helmets and drysuits for kayaking, waders for fishing and even a boot dryer.

Some may be put off by the lodge’s remote and hard-to-access location, but those that are willing to make the effort are rewarded with an experience that lasts a lifetime.

Adventure-seeking couples, groups of friends and families with older children seeking spectacular uncrowded landscapes and a memorable lodge

The most common way to reach Rio Palena is to first get to Puerto Montt from Santiago. From Puerto Montt, travelers can either take a short flight down to Chaiten airstrip and a three-hour transfer to the lodge or they can take a charter flight to Palena Airfield followed by a 20-minute drive or 10-minute helicopter. Alternatively, guests can come via Buenos Aires to Esquel and take a three-hour transfer across the border into Chile and to the lodge.